Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea i think your right there, just putting cash aside now for t400 auto box and trans brake so im expecting to break diffs and axles more often when i get it all in the car. i found billet axles for my car rated to 1000hp for 550 delivered so if i break them again ill just upgrade. diffs i have just not axles.

yea i think your right there, just putting cash aside now for t400 auto box and trans brake so im expecting to break diffs and axles more often when i get it all in the car. i found billet axles for my car rated to 1000hp for 550 delivered so if i break them again ill just upgrade. diffs i have just not axles.

Are they for Gts-t cause I only ever find GTR ones which I assume are longer?

Debating wether it's better to have the driveshafts as the weakpoint or not cause if I get stronger ones it's only gonna be something more expensive that will break instead......

Driveshafts should not break if the suspension is setup properly, the only other way they will break is fatigue from doing a million launches in them. If you have have really hard spring rates like 7-9kg/mm on the rear well that is way to hard, and if your car gets axle tramp when the wheels spin well that will also cause it to be weaker. Personally i don't know if GTR shafts are longer than GTS ones but i'm gonna guess and say they should be the same. If you are gonna be drag racing the car all the time then its probably worth spending some coin on the rear end suspension getting it right so when the car squats for a launch the driveshafts are as straight as possible. + dumping the clutch at 6000-7000rpm is not good either as this shock loads the whole drive train, in GTR's when you dump the clutch at 8000-9000rpm all the time i guarantee you will end up breaking something really quickly, need to side step the clutch by releasing the pedal slowly and letting the clutch grab slowly it might just save the drive train a bit of shock load. I see people all break shafts all the time, i've owned skylines and GTR's now for 6yrs + and have never broken a drive shaft yet and i thrash the shit out of my cars ask Kingy he can concur with this lol thumbsup.gif.

Haha yeah. I think my driveshaft that snapped was a bit of a random thing. Ask anyone I don't really do hard launches around town, I'm a girl and all that shit yeah yeah :P

But it's always in the back of my mind now, I'm mainly worried about if I ever get semis. But I need to slip the clutch a bit next time I go out for a run. The button clutch won't make it easy but I'll manage :)

cal, I did stacks of drags and launches and stuff, and with semi slicks and never had an axle problem. I think your problem was a bit of a fluke.

Also, always let the clutch out, never side step. Too much shock, and you'll only create unwanted wheelspin.

I see people all break shafts all the time, i've owned skylines and GTR's now for 6yrs + and have never broken a drive shaft yet and i thrash the shit out of my cars ask Kingy he can concur with this lol thumbsup.gif.

Does beat the shit out of it..... When its not parked up being worked on lol...:P

Ben, would t waste your time with the dirty thirty.

You're better off with the dirty whore, thirty four. Haha.

The rb30 cranks are a bit old to be spinning hard. The rb34 kit from spool has a billet crank in with the package. Costs $5k. Spin the f**ker to 10k and bolt twin gtx3071s on it, haha.

You need to set the record straight with the xr6ts ;)

Ben, would t waste your time with the dirty thirty.

You're better off with the dirty whore, thirty four. Haha.

The rb30 cranks are a bit old to be spinning hard. The rb34 kit from spool has a billet crank in with the package. Costs $5k. Spin the f**ker to 10k and bolt twin gtx3071s on it, haha.

You need to set the record straight with the xr6ts ;)

Ah i got 2 RB30 blocks at home a shitty N/A block and a Turbo Block, should just sell them and spend it on my N1 engine or sell the lot and twin turbo the Z, hhmm never own 2 good cars it just makes it harder to figure out what to spend the money on.... someone buy my GTR i'm sick of looking at it.

the NA blocks are just as good as the turbo blocks (exactly the same) if they are a series 2 block. They have the oil and water lines for the turbo. Just bunged up.

I'd use one for the RB34 ;)

How long do you think Cals engine would last with the TO4Z on it? haha.

Lol Stock RB25 with T04Z = LAG MONSTER i'd give a week before it would blow a piston and rings to bits rolleyes.gif

I remember my mates R34 GTT i built for him with a GT3540 on a stock engine, damn that thing had bulk lag but was awesome fun on boost.

Lol Stock RB25 with T04Z = LAG MONSTER i'd give a week before it would blow a piston and rings to bits rolleyes.gif

I remember my mates R34 GTT i built for him with a GT3540 on a stock engine, damn that thing had bulk lag but was awesome fun on boost.

Seen an RB25 with a T04Z (all be it not as new design as the one you have) and yeah..... No thanks lol

The only reason I went HKS was for good mix of power and response, would have been more then happy with the Pro S. I'm sure of that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...