Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nulon is supposed to be good for the price. But I'm undecided at the moment. I've used Castrol Edge before, but didn't really like it. Hard to explain but the car just felt nicer when I went back to Motul

Got 5000km before I need to service it again, with work and the amount I drive that will probably be near 6 months away lol. Plenty of time to decide what I want to use

If anyone has a complete RB25 head that they want to offload for cheap let me know also

The car ran a PB on 9.58 @ 144mph with a 60ft of 1.4sec which i am pretty happy with. Willowbank will be the proving ground of its true potential. 0.5sec is what i am guess-ta-mating we will gain on track condition with the same 800hp tune at the moment which gives us a 9.0sec and Mark thinks that with a healthy tune on 36psi should get us the 8.7 - 8.8sec which will give us the record we have set out to achieve. Fastest Street Tyre H-Pattern GTR, but baby steps first as long as the car goes faster every time we drive it is always an achievement which is what it has been doing which at the end of the day is all we want.

The car is impressing us every time we run, we do very minimal changes and gain huge results which gives us massive satisfaction. The car is still full bodied all steel panels still only carbon bonnet at the moment and we have heaps of things to lighten the car up but at this point in time are just not needed, like carbon doors, carbon boot, remove intercooler, carbon brake rotors, Weld drag rims, Lexan windows, exhaust removal, interior strip etc. Which would gives us an easy 100KG + lighter.

The car also had its first major component failure, but was to be expected as it cops the brute force and shock load and has done over 40 odd drag launches and numerous dyno runs, and if you have ever owned a GTR the clutch does not last very long if you keep doing hard 4wd Launches. The engine and gearbox was removed yesterday and the clutch was sent straight to Doug at NPC to get overhauled and modified even stronger to full drag specification. While the engine is out we will check everything to make sure it is 110% before it heads of to Jambo. Bring it on I say :woot:.

IMG_0159.jpg

IMG_0158.jpg

IMG_0157.jpg

Ben, that just means he didn't launch it hard enough :P

I just want a rough daily that goes fast, and looks ok, and has most of the annoying mods done. Not sure if I like red though.

What do you guys think of this? http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_500wt_1414

Trying to find something that isn't full of kebab wrappers if you know what I mean.

Edited by The Mafia

That's nice, i like that red Jono.

Nice work ben, just out of curiosity who would be best to see about gearbox issues? i am quite sure i have a worn 5th synchro.

Also i need to get my pads re machined, who would be best to see for that? heard good things about Borgs brakes and front end but never got anything done with them.

thanks

That's nice, i like that red Jono.

Nice work ben, just out of curiosity who would be best to see about gearbox issues? i am quite sure i have a worn 5th synchro.

Also i need to get my pads re machined, who would be best to see for that? heard good things about Borgs brakes and front end but never got anything done with them.

thanks

I do all my own gearbox work man so i cant really recommend anyone.

Do you mean your rotors need machining?

Have you looked how much new ones are? I got DBA rotors for mine for a bit over $400 for all 4. AFM pads are pretty good as well

Had a bit of a look around yeah, mine have plenty of life left so i just wanted to get the faces machined because they are a little lumpy and you can see lines on the face.

Just like to thank Jono again for hooking me up with Leon, took my V35 to him today to get my comp rod bushes replaced and he did a great job. So good to not hear that horrible clunking noise anymore after putting up with it for 5 months, that's how long it takes to find someone in Mackay!

i'd love to do my mown work just sucks that i dont have a shed or the gear to do most of the work, plus little knowledge is a factor haha. I'm not sure what i'd like to do maybe, forge the engine, get a new ecu and fuel management, larger turbo. i'd probably be happy with that haha.

I don't think there's any businesses in town that have the equipment to do a good tune but there's blokes with awesome setups in their home garage.. eg Leon. Has a hoist and everything and very knowledgable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...