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I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I used to run Mobil 1.

BUT, just as a treat one day and I liked the name I tried Royal Purple, there is no point in trying to sell it. You just have to try it yourself and see the results. I couldn't believe that oil would make such a difference.[/quote:fd1587d658]

i've heard nothing but praise about the royal purple. it's on everyones top list so it must be worth it. i think i'll try it in around 2000k's when my service is due.

peakRPM, how much do you pay for 5L?

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There are about 3 different "grades" of Mobil 1. I'm not talking about the viscosity but the actual quality.

This was news to me a couple of weeks ago. I have been using the 0W40 I get from my Bro in law. Cost price is now $16/litre, used to be around $10. It's good stuff. It's not the same as the stuff you get at K-Mart.

The car blew some tiny puffs of smoke when it 1st went in but now doesn't blow/use any. Thin as water. I change it every 5000 or earlier (usually 'cos I can't quite remember when 5000 is up...)

Recommend it.

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In an engine like the RB25DET I think the thinner the better. Nissan engines typically use a fairly thin oil anyway (normally around a 5W I think). Their tolerances seem pretty tight, so the thinner the better especially with the turbo.

In the bike I use a thicker oil (straight 40W or 50W) as it's air cooled and these engines naturally have wider tollerances. If you have an old clunker and it's using/blowing oil try a thicker viscosity.

Whatever you do keep that el Cheapo no name stuff out of your engine. Buy the best you can afford.

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