Oil/air seperator

[Jet]

I heard that Oil/air seperator is makes ur turbo last longer.

how effective is it?

how much does it cost usually?

and where do you get them in Sydney?

[Guest INASNT]

Doesent really help the turbo, it filters out oil vapour from going back into the inlet manifold which causes detonation when running high boost and high timing.

[JimX]

I'm considering buying this one but from what I can see it only has one inlet and a breather to vent to the engine bay, thus making it as illegal as my current cheapass crankcase breather.

Autospeed have an article somewhere on how to make your own, should cost less than $50 but doesn't look as good as the above one.

[T0nyGTSt]

Isn't this an oil catch can?

I'm after a cusco unit soonish...

T.

[Guest INASNT]

This is my setup

[Steve]

A catch can or oil/air seperator will also prevent oil vapour from coating the inside of the coola - this will reduce the coola's efficiency. When I got a front mount, i noticed that the inlet side of the stock one had a black film on it - not good.

MIght be worth considering too, that if you fit a catch can that vents to amosphere (rather than plumbing back) it is illegal from an emissions point of view.

[SlowGTS-t]

You could also call the catch can a "filter".

Let your imagination guide you from here.

Oh, make sure the breathers dont get blocked. Blocked breather = lots of blue smoke..

[dabigbolf]

in terms of catch cans what is too loook out for.

does size matter with them, or is it all in the design

[DREMEN]

bump....... i am also after this info

[Guest INASNT]

Originally posted by dabigbolf

in terms of catch cans what is too loook out for.

does size matter with them, or is it all in the design

they only come in 1 generic size!

[Emre]

Might be worth considering too, that if you fit a catch can that vents to amosphere (rather than plumbing back) it is illegal from an emissions point of view.

Bang on.

As well as being illegal, it will also make your car smell like a 1970 HQ Kingswood which is not very pleasent.

in terms of catch cans what is too loook out for.

does size matter with them, or is it all in the design

They are simple in operation and will have two connections, think of it as "line in" and "line out". For it to be effective there will have to be adequate baffling in between these lines, otherwise the same oil you are collecting will find its way into your inlet.

Do a search on Autospeed and you will come across articles like this one which will explain it better.

[T0nyGTSt]

IMO there are two off the shelf cans worth looking at - Cusco with the glass level indicator and the small Greddy one.

Both are ok, Cusco is a bit higher capacity but like it can hold 6 months worth of oil so size is really irrelevant.

T.

[Emre]

From the ease of maintanance point of view, bigger the unit better it is. The bigger units would also work more effectively as well, depending on what you do with your car. The downside however is the difficulty in finding a proper spot for a big catch can.

ARC make an awesome one that replaces your windscreen washer bottle, but they are quite expensive. Getting a custom one made on the same principle would be a lot cheaper and should be looked at.

[psi]

The idea behind the seperator is to remove oil fumes and vapour from the air (blow by) from the crankcase before it re-enters the engine to be burnt. In order to get the seperator to work to its best, it needs to do a few key things.

1. The seperator needs to be of large enough internal volume to slow the air stream which is laced with the oil fumes. The slower air means that there is enough time for the larger oil fumes to 'stick' to something and create a droplet. These droplets help 'grab' smaller droplets and removes lots more oil.

2. The seperator needs to have a massive amount of internal surface area. Buffles are not usually good enough to 'scub' the oil from the air. It is recomended that the seperator is filled with a substance that is not able to be disolved by petrol or engine heat. It also needs to be able to add a huge amount of surface area to the device. I use stainless steel wool (usually from under the sink).

3. In order to stay within the letter of the law, the EPA require that ALL air from the engine MUST be burnt. Oil/ air seperators, BOV's everything. So, the seperator needs to be reconnected to the intake tract.

4. For cleaning purposes, it is best to have a sperator that is easy to drain and clean. some use a drain hole in the bottom of the canistor which goes back to the sump. I just pull mine out and clean it everytime i do an oil change. I was amazed how much oil it caught!!

Any other thoughts..

[psi]

ohh, i forgot.. some people use scotch brite pads to fill the canistor . These work very well as well. For an even more serious effort, u can fit the scotchbrite into the vent flutes inside the rocker cover. this helps keep the oil in the engine to start with.

Be warned: make sure there is no way that the scotchbrite can be dislodged! this would be fatal to the engine. Also don't jamm it in there damn tight, otherwise it wont be able to breathe.

[700HP-GTR33]

Not bad...lol..Bringing an old thread back to life r we psi.

[3intheBack]

Not bad...lol..Bringing an old thread back to life r we psi.

Yeah, it's good to have a bit of technical input, so you know what you're looking for when buying (or building).

And guess who has got 6 stainless steel catch cans in a production line sitting on the shelf just waiting to be bought.

No. 1 and 2 have already been sold, one to PSI himself and one to me!

Only 4 left.

Edited February 19, 2007 by 3intheBack