Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well... Shit. Just what I needed. Noticed a wierd noise coming from the rear left of my car as I was leaving work. The frequency of the noise is relative to how fast or slow the car is going, so I figure it's something to do with the wheel. When I get home I find this:

ohsnap1.jpg

Missing nuts? What the hell? Upon closer inspection...

ohsnap3.jpg

ohsnap.jpg

Two of the bolts have snapped clean off, leaving the thread down in the hub bit. I have no idea how this could have happened. It's got me absolutely buggered. I don't throw the car around very hard because I know my suspension, being still stock and 160,000km old isn't exactly A1 (which is why I'm saving for new suspension parts. I'm not exactly the most loaded guy out). Does anyone have any idea how something like this could happen? And more importantly, what I'm going to have to do to fix this? I'm assuming that I should keep the car off the road until this is sorted, because I don't exactly feel safe knowing my wheel nuts could seemingly just snap off for no apparent reason. What the hell should I do aside from obviously buy a new set of nuts (for the wheels :devil:)? I really didn't need another problem.

:wave:

Poor wheel balance/alignment can cause it, but it has to be pretty bad. Otherwise spacers or someone using the wrong wheel nuts and threading the stud, and forcing the nut on/off can cause them to crack and after a while driving they will oh snap.

Edited by Amaru

curious. i would recommend pressing the studs out, your wheels bearings will not thank you otherwise.

any sign of damage to the other wheel nuts? may be that last time you got new tyres some monkey with a rattle gun cross threaded them and then torqued them to within an inch of their life and cracked and just fell out, but it's still really strange.

i'm surprised that it made a noise though, wheels will hold on with only two nuts sometimes as it's the hub that takes the weight, the nuts just hold the wheel to it. noise usually means the wheel is loose.

as nik says poor fitting spacers will also kill them.

i'd check the other nuts out, seems almost as though someone is playing a nasty trick.

Edited by Scooby

Hmm.. Ok, thanks for that guys. I guess my biggest concern is: can it actually be driven? I work in phillip but live in belco. If it can be driven I can probably get it looked at pretty much straight away and get what's needed since I work for a nissan dealership, I'm just scared as hell that the remaining wheel nuts could snap off too, seeing as it's happened twice.

I honestly don't think my wheel alignment is to blame, because it certainly wasn't/isn't that bad. I think there may be spacers on there, but I'm not 100% as I've never actually had any cause to take the wheels off myself. Guess what I'll be doing tommorow :laugh:

Edited by Sauce

just taking a stab in the dark but do u have aftermarket wheels on ur car? If yes, check that the hub diameter of the wheel matches ur hub, it its bigger, then u need hub rings. Take it to a wheel shop n they should be able to tell u if u need them or not. If ur wheel hub diameter is bigger than ur hub, its actually putting stress on ur studs.

just taking a stab in the dark but do u have aftermarket wheels on ur car? If yes, check that the hub diameter of the wheel matches ur hub, it its bigger, then u need hub rings. Take it to a wheel shop n they should be able to tell u if u need them or not. If ur wheel hub diameter is bigger than ur hub, its actually putting stress on ur studs.

What n15m0 said is, I would be willing to bet, is the problem!

There seems to be many Skyline owners with non standard wheels running on the studs instead of the central hub rings.

It makes a lot of difference to the handling and safety of your car if ithe wheels are not a snug fit on the hubs.

CHECK your wheels now guys!

they have been over tightened at one point in there life, most probably from a rattle gun...

totally agree....over torqued in the past weakened them, maybe together with an incorrect size hub ring on aftermarket wheels.

Anway....assuming the nuts are still tight it will be safe to drive (carfeully) to a local tyre shop they can check out the other studs and replace those ones for you.

And when they are finished if you see them tighten them with a rattle gun ask what the wheel nuts were torque to....nissan says 110nm.

I have seen a whole wheel fall off a race car from overtightened wheel nuts....it made the car real hard to drive.

Had similar problem...

Can be caused by the wheel nuts comin loose..

Mine did that... had funny noise coming from front left wheel couldnt work it out. then noticed nuts were loose, touched one and it snapped..

just an idea.

I had a similar problem not long ago. Heard a weird noise from the rear end and pulled over to have a look, two nuts were missing, one stud was snapped and the other three nuts were loose. Seems weird this would happen to only one wheel when i tightened them all exactly the same way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...