Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I recently purchased a car from [edited] in japan. It took more than 4 months for the car to get here after it was sent to the wrong port in Japan, then two days before the car arrived i discovered the chassis number i was given for the import approval was different from the car on the ship. It cost me another $200 for a new import approval (thank goodness it went through quickly) and storage on the dock while the approval went through.

I went to look at the car at the compliance workshop and guess what IT WAS THE WRONG CAR luckily it was pretty similar but i had to spend $2000 extra on fixing things broken and damaged.

[edited] promised to pay for the approval and dock mix up, which they didn't and when i asked them to pay for the damage to be fixed (as i was told the car was not damaged) they said they were checking and never got back to me.

So the car is hopefully on the road next week and wish me luck nothing else goes wrong

cheers Si

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140703-problems-with-a-company/
Share on other sites

thats f**ked. why did you even pay for the damage to be fixed? had you already paid for the full purchase price?

I had to pay for it to be fixed to get complianced and yeah i had already paid the price for car i guess i took a risk and got burnt thats life just wanted to warn others so it didn't happen to them, anyway looking forward to driving it next week hopefully its all ok on the road

This is the reason why you should always purchase cars through a compliance workshop rather than through one of the internet companies. While they offer good cars from time to time, in most cases it is too good to be true and car's are coming over with damage and missing parts they should have had. Buying car's through a compliance workshop in most cases works out to be cheaper and you can ensure that you will get a decent car, otherwise you have someone else to hold responsible for it.

Thats my 2 cents.

This is the reason why you should always purchase cars through a compliance workshop rather than through one of the internet companies. While they offer good cars from time to time, in most cases it is too good to be true and car's are coming over with damage and missing parts they should have had. Buying car's through a compliance workshop in most cases works out to be cheaper and you can ensure that you will get a decent car, otherwise you have someone else to hold responsible for it.

Thats my 2 cents.

Bollocks, I've seen some compliance companies buy absolute rubbish cars with accident damage beacuse they can comply em on the sly and get away with it... (give engineer a bottle of scotch, turn him around 6 times and suddenly you've got a signature on the compliance paperwork).... then they turn it around and sell it to clients as totally pristine cars. Also most compliance workshops use japanese agents to buy cars from... just like everyone else.

^^ probably dodgy compliance shops!!

go to a well known trusted one and you wont have any issues at all..

for sure... but its the bad ones that ruin it for the rest.

check out www.raws.org.au its a organisation for RAWS workshops, the ones that are members of this body are one's I'd deal with any day because they're by the book and can be trusted.

for sure... but its the bad ones that ruin it for the rest.

check out www.raws.org.au its a organisation for RAWS workshops, the ones that are members of this body are one's I'd deal with any day because they're by the book and can be trusted.

good to hear ...i joined this month :D

Bollocks, I've seen some compliance companies buy absolute rubbish cars with accident damage beacuse they can comply em on the sly and get away with it... (give engineer a bottle of scotch, turn him around 6 times and suddenly you've got a signature on the compliance paperwork).... then they turn it around and sell it to clients as totally pristine cars. Also most compliance workshops use japanese agents to buy cars from... just like everyone else.

Hence for that reason you should always use a well known and reliable workshop. Compliance workshops normally use the same agents over and over again to source them cars. So it is in the best interest of the agent not to find the cheapest car but the ones of best quality to ensure that they continue to be used.

In the case that the car arrives in terrible condition you have the workshop to be held responsible for incorrect information being supplied to the customer. A certain internet company (not j-spec) that many of my friends have bought R32's through have recieved cars with blown motors, blown turbo's, missing parts and severe amounts of rust. That said it was complied under the old 15 year rule, which allowd a lot of dodgy car's to make there way onto australian roads.

Yes I have seen cars been put on road by dodgy compliance companies but that said, a car imported by the workshop and then sold in australia abides under australian law. Also you can also get a third party inspection to ensure the car is in good condition. But when it's bought through an internet company, most of these companies have there contracts set so that if a car arrives in a different condition to the information supplied to there customer they cannot be held liable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...