Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well hi all.

It's propably just me or it's my car, but it seams that the car never, ever runs exactly the same twice.

On some mornings it pulls like a 6 year old, and other it's as flat as kansas.

Everytime i get in the car it seams to go differantly. I know the weather has a lot to do with the way it runs, especialy having a large intercooler fitted ect, but it kinda sux.

Does anyone else find that their car runs different at many times, or it is just mine?

I still have the stock ECU with an SAFC II, dump pipe and exhaust, new pump, HKS pod, running 10psi boost, FMIC and some others, managed 187 rwks at 10 psi.

I just find, and this could be still the problem with the stock ecu, that they have so much controll over what happens, that the car just doesn't seam to be thesame twice.

I have changed the temp senosr, 02 sensor and checked a few others, doesn't seam to have any problems.

ANY IDEAS???????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140984-why-are-skylines-so-blody-pedantic/
Share on other sites

lol you'll probably come across to your mechanic as insane and paranoid..

but yeah mine is kinda like that.. i think my coils are dirty.. need to get them cleaned

If your coils were the problem, you would have a miss.

and bit of resistancce in your secondary side wouldn't be too bad, as this will step up your voltage.

Cheers

Sumo

Well i don't actually think i have a problem as such, i have checked everything, leaks, gaskets, sensors (replaced two) new O2 sensor, tuned, timming, new pump, ect ect.

The only thing that i am 100% sure is that all my studs on th eexhaust manifold are OK, i did not pull all the heat sheild off to have a look at it.

But for example this morning, it run great, pulled dam hard, actually felt the 187rwkws it has. But other times it feals slugish and slow.

Also my coils are shot to shit, gap down to .6mm, so i don't think that is helping.

I'd say it has to do with the driving. Heat soak etc...

Mine is near stock, when it's been sitting for a couple of minutes (motorway traffic) heatsoak sets in something terrible and I feel the drop in power.

Also things like where you park can affect it too (how much airflow / sun light), so when you start it up it could be quite warm already.

On a cool night mine feels like a monster, on a warm day, I can feel it get sluggish. What sort of airflow do you have to your FMIC? Where do you park?

If it is beyond those issues... then it's time to take it to the mechanic or tuner and ask them.

yeah well i park near the water, so nice and cool sometimes, and scorching hot other times.

I wasn't that i think the car has issues, but it's the first car that i owned with a turbo, and you certainly notice it.

i have a stagea with the rb25det engine...only mod so far is a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and was wondering about the exact same thing for some time now

i dont think its anything wrong with the car as it still pulls hard at times...but after having driven for like 1/2 hour in traffic...just doesnt seem to have any torque left in the bugger.... might have something to do with the stock cooler ..but even the exhaust note is different after heat soak...seems to stutter more and pops every now and again on decelaration. but cant really complain...still goes like the clappers when i floor the gas

When I first got my 32 it had lots of issues due to years of neglected maintenance an indifferent japanese owner.

I had the belts and plugs done, injectors and fuel filter, then o2 sensor, then coils, with each change making a noticeable improvement but it still feels flat sometimes.

It always goes hard on full throttle but seems to differ greatly in part throttle response.

On light cruise at 60kph sometimes I hear a relay tick and it feels like something is holding the car back and it's not the a/c as I first thought

because it has done it when the a/c was turned off.

It seems like the ecu is pulling some timing out for some reason.

its the HKS pod + heat soak... is it shielded from the heat of the engine bay?

I had an HKS pod, unshielded, and the heat soak even on mild days was terrible... changed to an ARC box and it is much better... however its a turbo so will always feel better at night or on cold days regardless

FMIC actually helped a lot with heat soak too... I know they are supposed to block the airflow to the radiator and all that but I don't have any overheating issues... the stock SMIC used to heat soak sooo quickly

yeah at the moment my HKS pod is unsheilded as i have no time do make one up. The FMIC did help, but like i said, being a turbo, it sure is noticable.

I also think a lot have to do with the stock ecu, it has sooo much controll over the parameters, that i am sure a PFC would help aswell.

i live in the same area as you mate, mine suffers something severe from heatsoak :) , a pfc wont fix it, get a cai of some sort, asap, oh and go buy/borrow one of those laser heat detector thingys and measure your exh temp and cooler pipes either side of the cooler, and another thing you may want to consider is a bonnet vent of some type, just for fun sake space your bonnet up an inch or two at the rear drive it like that for a week and let us know the verdict ;)

Edited by toffy

i have one of the laser temp things at work. I already have the spaces made up, my mate had a set, but i need to find them, they are under the house somewhere. LOL. My house is a mess.

Hay Toffy, hows about anwsering my PM, i'm still looking for a boost controller.

Yeah i'll have to get off my ass and make up a heit sheild and a CAI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...