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You'll likely find, you never really get pressure to pop that valve. If you are getting "pressure" it's going out the unrestricted hole before it hangs around to build up and pop the rubber flap. IE, it's headed for the intake pipe. In reality, if we did it right, your "vent" would actually go to a PCB valve at the inlet, and you'd still have the two the intake pipe too. When in vacuum, motor sucks it in, when on boost, PCB shut, and you will be getting enough air flow past (if they've put the catchcan pipe on the inlet in a good spot, at the right angle) which will create suction. Current setup in reality, you're just forcing it to the intake pipe. -
Slightly off topic - I've just wired oil pressure sensor into my LinkECU as well - I tapped into the existing dash cluster oil pressure light wiring, and fed that back into an Auxiliary output in the ECU. That now lets me control the original dash oil pressure light based on a range of conditions triggered by the LinkECU - means the factory light isn't entirely redundant now that the factory oil pressure switch is no longer installed. -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Hasn't risen high enough on the to do this yet for it to be done lol. One day it will be done... one day... I know, but I tell myself its ok because I took a heap of temp measurements of the terminals over a 12 or so hour drive, temps were never an issue. Plus I made sure to pat the bulk head and say "she'll be right". So, yep she'll be right lol. -
Mine was great for years too! -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
PWM enters the chat, no more melty bits. You never drive your car at 100% all day, why does your fuel pump need to be at 100% all day?
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