Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, so i did a oil change, and afterwards, double checked everything and whiped it all down so i could see if there was any leaks, after two days, i checked and all was clean, so i drove on, didnt think about it. A week after the change i checked and noticed that the sump bolt was leaking, quite a bit to.

The oil measures about 1 centimetre up on the dip stick only (about 1 centimeter below the low mark). I do believe this means i have about 3.5 litres of engine oil in the engine, right? Like the dip stick only measures about 1 litre of the sumps contents right?

So anyway its been running like that (3.5 litres?) for about 3 days (to and fro work) max. I sort of noticed that after the new oil went in (might have been because of a different viscosity) it rattles when engine revs drop fast, e.g. changing gears. This morning when i started her to warm up, noticed the oil leak, then switched her off, as she was switching off it let out a rattle. Its not a very loud rattle, but it scared the shiet out of me. Was thinking it was caused by to little oil. The stuff i put was HPR 15 SAE 15W-60 penrite.

What do you guys reckon, will it be ok once i put more oil in and a new washer/bolt on the bottom of the sump? Or is it shagged? Or is the oil not the right type?

Edited by 123456

I would suggest changing the oil & filter again. When you have the old oil take a GOOD look at both it & the contents of the filter. If there are any shiney bits in it you have damaged your motor. If not, go and buy a lottery ticket.

And, yeah, use a different (lower viscosity) oil.

Penrite is usually a pretty good quality oil. I would think that a 60 grade oil is OK seeing as it's coming up to summer.

My opinion is that the rattles are not related to the oil change. In fact, I am suspecting that the damage was already done. Hopefully it's only a bit of bearing wear, but it could also be piston slap.

Either way, it would be very worthwhile getting the car to a good mechanic who can do a better diagnosis by actually hearing it, than we can by reading about it.

The dipstick measures about 1.5litres, so say u have a 2.0litre motor, add 1.5litres and about 200 mls for your oil filter and that approximately how much oil you put in. But it depends, cos always check oil after starting it.

Umm try a washer, because it may just be that, ive seen a few other dodgy fixes like some people have used thread tape.... :S

Thanks for the help guys, i do have one other question though. Could it be that this oil is thinner than the last oil i put in, and that is why the rattling has appeared?

Would running it, like 1.5 litres down on oil really damage it much? I know i put about 4.7 in it, so lets say its runing 3.2 litres total.. not like its dry.

I'm hoping that the oil is just thinner, and therefore is making the already present rattles a lil louder. I'll check if this rattle is not in fact just part of the injector rattle i had previously (Just thought of that then)

Edited by 123456

you should be fine, if you werent, you would've spun a bearing.

just dont drive it till you get a new sump plug.

you've got around 4.5L of oil in your motor, the bottom of the dip stick indicates you'll have around 3-3.5L left. no dramas as long as you weren't hammering it on a track.

Ok thanks guys, i was only going work to back, so shouldnt be any problems, judging from what you guys have said. I was gonna have to empty it out, to replace the bolt anyway, i'll check for crap. Was 100% crap free, last change, hope it still is :(

Hmm, yeh thats actually a fair call on the magnetic sump bolt

Oh well, i emptied the oil, it was all clean, no filings, put a new washer on the sump bolt, put it all back together. Now i cant seem to hear that death rattle, dont know why, strange. Car seems to be running alright

Thanks guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...