Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all...

At the moment, I'm sorting out all of the plans for where my R33 GTS-t is going to head.

At the moment, it's running a plazmaman FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, and a boost controller (Supposedly 7/11PSi, but I'm starting to not trust it)

Now, the car will be used on the road (As a weekend car) and will also be used on the track (Oran park, Wakefield, and EC) I want to end up out there joining SAU on club days.

Now, within 12months, I want to up the performance of my car. Right now, "it's quick enough" (I'd like it quicker, except I need to learn this level of power first)

Now, since I plan to run it on the race track, I need alot of midrange power, not just out right top end for drag racing.

What I intend to end up running, will be:

Better injectors (A must have)

fuel pump.

ECU (Already lined up, will be happening soon :()

Turbo

Cams.

Now, that's about all in the way of power really. Unless I blow the motor up.

So, what I really want to know is: What sort of turbo should I run for response of being basically on boost (Near full boost) before 3400RPM (I hit full boost at the moment at 2800RPM... And I like it!)

I also want to turn the wick up, and have some decentish power.

I'm aiming at around 290-300RWKW (With a shit load of torque over mid range) once the mods are on.

Is this possible, whilst retaining mid range? I'd even be happy with 270RWKW at the moment.

Planning on "high boost" running of around 18/19PSi for track days, and probably drop it back to around 10-15PSi for daily road use.

Edit: Might as well ask this here also.

When on the freeway, at 90km/h, sits at around 2700RPM, plant the foot, and it flys out to full boost VERY quickly. and hits 100km/h with in that same time. Now, when I hit 100km/h, if I back off to cruise again, and within 2-3 seconds plant it again, the car takes FOREVER to reach full boost again. Is this an issue with waste gate or something more serious?

Edited by MBS206
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141095-the-right-setup/
Share on other sites

Mate best Package will be

-Gt30r Turbo

-650 cc injectors(sard ETC)

-a Intank Fuel Pump around 600 hp flow

-as for a ECU can go starting from the bottom (microtech,Hydra,Haltech)That way u get rid of the AFM and they all make plug n play ecus

-tommie Pon Cams

-Commetic or Tommie head gasket with arp Head bolts

-Upgrade coils

And with a good tune the car should last you a long while on 18 psi

Alot of my customers are running around with similar packages and are making around 300 kws

But also you have to take into consideration the engine breathing so catch cans etc will be needed

Edited by MR331307
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141095-the-right-setup/#findComment-2627531
Share on other sites

Drop the bar to 270rwkw... expecially for a track RB25, i wouldnt see it taking much more with consistent high RPM that your going to be using it for...

Then your into the GCG hi-flow territory without a doubt.

Cheap upgrade as its bolt on affair and will net you 260-270rwkw which comes virtually like standard, but with much more poke everywhere.

Otherwise you've gotta take a step up and you'll make the power, but you wont have the response that your after

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141095-the-right-setup/#findComment-2627532
Share on other sites

R31: 260-270 isn't too bad of a figure. I'd most likely be very happy with that. As I also have alot of suspension tweaking to do.

As for dropping it on a dyno, it has not yet managed to see one yet (I've only owned it around a month and a touch, hence I want to learn it more at the power level that it is at)

The ECU is already decided on, and will be running an Adaptronic.

Coilpacks are also currently Split Fires.

Also has button clutch, and 5KG flywheel.

From memory (And what I've seen under the hood) it's already running a catchcan.

I'm still only fairly new to the Skyline scene.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141095-the-right-setup/#findComment-2627653
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...