Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oooooooo hellloooooooooo Nathan and how are you today.

So ya going to get a r32 ay cant go wrog there good power for ya first turbo car and when ya get good at driveing it ya can get a engine up grade. RB25DET/RB25DET NEO or the bigg daddy GTR RB26DETT oooooo yerrrrrrrr. Me i got the neo but any ways have fun and be safe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141250-my-intro/page/2/#findComment-2655726
Share on other sites

yeah but already discussing mods for the most power with my buddy damo

ill have around 3000 for mods if i want to spen that (which i want to :P )

atm im looking at a n14 model TI (2.0L version :D)

manual 92-93

Edited by prego
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141250-my-intro/page/2/#findComment-2656056
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
×
×
  • Create New...