Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering ive got an R33 gts-t 1995, can the car be rev limited...if that makes sense, my car says it can rev to 9000, but the redline starts at 7, and the revs will not exceed 7000, like the needle for the revs will just bounce up and down at 7, dono if this is a skyline R33 thing, or my car is just the odd one out. And can u get like a piggy back computer to change that...

cheers! :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141364-can-r33s-be-rev-limited/
Share on other sites

dont let it sit at 7k, ull break somthing.

that sounds normal, same with my car. the limiter on them stops them from going over 190kmh, in 5th at full throddle, u can get past about 5.5k.

Dunno about that vange......... I've had mine with the needle pointing straight down(well past the 180) and that was early 5th! and as for the limiter........ it's there for a reason to stop you from going into the unknown, it's ok to go there, just not too often! LOL

They all have rev limiters in, just about every car with an ECU has one, it's common sense.

These aren't carbied V8's that let you spin em till they do bearings, or just 'splode, etc.

Just coz the guage says 9000 RPM doesn't mean you can actually hit it.

You can get Nismo 320KPH Speedos too...

I can't remember the factory ECU strategy but I'm pretty sure it's an ignition cut.

They make a distinctive noise when they bounce off it too.

I tell a lie, you probably could hit 9000 RPM if you were revving high in 3rd gear, and on the gear change managed to grab 2nd instead 4th.

Pretty sure a Volvo did it in Targa a few years back, went to 10,000 RPM, then popped!

Edit: The easiest way to find it (your limit) is do a burnout in 2nd.

You should be able to hold it there no worries for a while.

Just don't go free revving it to find out (can't remember exactly why but) it's bad.

If i remember rightly stock R32 is about 7200RPM (gauge reads 8500-9000 and redline starts at 6500-7000).

Edited by Oosh
Dunno about that vange......... I've had mine with the needle pointing straight down(well past the 180) and that was early 5th! and as for the limiter........ it's there for a reason to stop you from going into the unknown, it's ok to go there, just not too often! LOL

yeh i guessed 190, cos it passes the 180, didnt really get my protractor out n see if its pointing down, cos i was going a bit fast at the time lol :)

yeh i had 5th n it wouldnt go anymore, n i had a bit more revs left in it....

No it is 180KPH, once your speedo gets abouve 100KPH it's pretty inaccurate, that's why it'll show 190KPH on the dial around the speed cut.

Hook up to the consult port and get a digital read-out and you can see the difference.

Edit: Maybe i'm selling the poor speedo short, that's only about a 5% error really, it just gets compounded the faster you go.

Edited by Oosh

The rb25's are prone to throwing rods at around 7500rpm, It will handle 7000rpm with confidence. It's best in every respect not to 'free rev' the motor past around 5 grand, the reason for this is a free reving motor doesn't have nearly enough load on all the components to stop them flapping around 'so to speak' where as a motor under full load at 7000rpm will have a lot more load bearing down on the rods etc, keeping bearing clearances to a bear minimum holding it all together. i hope that makes sence. I'm not saying that you can rev your motor as much as you like with load, im just saying all the components eg. gugion pins, bottom end bearings and the enertia of the pistons aren't bouncing around in fresh air causing unwanted vibration.

i would imagine free revving an engine would tend to stretch rods etc.

correct me if im wrong. i'm taking this information from things ive been told and read.

Edited by R3125DET
No it is 180KPH, once your speedo gets abouve 100KPH it's pretty inaccurate, that's why it'll show 190KPH on the dial around the speed cut.

Hook up to the consult port and get a digital read-out and you can see the difference.

Edit: Maybe i'm selling the poor speedo short, that's only about a 5% error really, it just gets compounded the faster you go.

Well I know my speedo's pretty accurate to within a couple kays at 100. So I calculated out my speed according to what RPM my tacho was reading (5250 I think it was, it was a fair while ago) & how many kph/1000 rpm the car did in 5th & it worked out to bang on 200kph. However there is a soft cut at 180kph where acceleration dies off very suddenly, so it then creeps to the 200 hard cut.

Without the speed limiter the car is theoretically capable of reaching 250kph when hitting the rev limiter in 5th, actually capable if the car has been modified sufficiently.

Also the rev limiter is definantely fuel cut. If it was ignition it would pop & crackle & carry on just like a drifter does when they find the limiter.

Edited by JazzaR33
The rb25's are prone to throwing rods at around 7500rpm, It will handle 7000rpm with confidence. It's best in every respect not to 'free rev' the motor past around 5 grand, the reason for this is a free reving motor doesn't have nearly enough load on all the components to stop them flapping around 'so to speak' where as a motor under full load at 7000rpm will have a lot more load bearing down on the rods etc, keeping bearing clearances to a bear minimum holding it all together. i hope that makes sence. I'm not saying that you can rev your motor as much as you like with load, im just saying all the components eg. gugion pins, bottom end bearings and the enertia of the pistons aren't bouncing around in fresh air causing unwanted vibration.

i would imagine free revving an engine would tend to stretch rods etc.

correct me if im wrong. i'm taking this information from things ive been told and read.

Don't mean to shoot you down, but tell me this. How often have you seen/heard of a an engine throwing a rod when it's just free reving? Probably never I'd say. 99 times out of a 100 things fail on an engine when under heavy load. Only thing I reckon you're likely to do free reving is hit a valve against a piston if you go beyond it's revving capabilities.

I've lost count of the amount of times I've hit the limiter (I can't help myself :)) but if the limiter wasn't there, I'd be far more cautious about reving my engine hard.

Edit: Yes I agree fuel cut isn't as good, I try to get off it ASAP

Edited by JazzaR33

i would imagine because those motors are reving far beyond their capability and half the time too much power aswell. you dont hear of many free revving rod throwers because most people aren't game enough to try. hehe

I have this discovery channel dvd at home about how cars are made, most euro and jap cars are tested way beyond their limits, They said most car manufacturers sit the engines on an engine dyno and bounce them off the limiter for a couple of hours!!! hehe amazing

^^id say so, but it depends what ur doing, when ur sideways its pretty hard to change gears and steer at the same time (unless ur mardle) so u dont have much choice but to bounce it off the limit. but for a drag, i wouldnt rev it past 7k, no point really.

is it fair to say staying within the red line gives you maximum performance and torque?

i highly doubt that it gives you any additional performance or torque once it pasts say 6k rpm. reason being is that (if were talking stock engine/turbo here) at that stage things just run out of puff. if you look at a majority of dyno figures, the graphs shows the power curve dying off at its peak (rev limiter). thats what i think anyways, so personally i dont see point in revving it anywhere near redline.

^^ Yes this is abosolutely true you will not gain anything by reving over 6 grand on the stock engine.

I always remember it feeling like it was struggling once it got past 6 with the stock exhaust, it was pointless. However with the new exhaust my own flattens in the power department at about 6500 & only just starts to die off before the limiter & is slowly dropping torque throughout the rev range.

Driving the car now I sometimes hit the limiter thinking it's got at least another 500 rpm more left in it.... until the mandarory brap brap brap happens & I see the tacho pointing at the red.... Whoops

No doubt with a freer flowing & much better cooling front mount the torque would be almost dead flat till at least 5 grand I reckon with much less drop off thereafter.

i highly doubt that it gives you any additional performance or torque once it pasts say 6k rpm. reason being is that (if were talking stock engine/turbo here) at that stage things just run out of puff. if you look at a majority of dyno figures, the graphs shows the power curve dying off at its peak (rev limiter). thats what i think anyways, so personally i dont see point in revving it anywhere near redline.

haha what i meant was staying before the redline, my bad! and what i was trying to get at was what is the point of going over when the car normally pull out the best torque before it! the only time i'll go past redline is when i forget to look at my revs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...