Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been on nengun and greenline and duznt seem to be any for the NEO? I have tomei cams so prefferbaly same brand. Would R33 fit? Rebuilt engine with 2835 .8 a/r, would i even need them?

Try performance Springs

or High Octane (even though i dislike them at the moment)

Edited by MR331307
Ive been on nengun and greenline and duznt seem to be any for the NEO? I have tomei cams so prefferbaly same brand. Would R33 fit? Rebuilt engine with 2835 .8 a/r, would i even need them?

If you're using tomei poncams you shouldnt need to change your valve springs.

Is it true that you shoud upgrade the springs when installing bigger cams? Due to higher lift therefore more stress on them? What about valve bounch or float? Any one suffered from this and at what power levels?

Is it true that you shoud upgrade the springs when installing bigger cams? Due to higher lift therefore more stress on them? What about valve bounch or float? Any one suffered from this and at what power levels?

over 300rwkw --- no problems and u havent looked hard enough tomei offer springs..

Cheers

Its not so much the power levels but boost run and rpm used.

I recently had a dude pm me stating his r33 experienced valve float on its std springs (unsure if he ran cams and what rpm) with anything over 20psi.

ill just edit the first post i wrote....8-9000rpm and boost is 1.6 drops off to 1.5bar..no probs..

8000-8200 for me aswell.

Into the mid 300rwkw's for a while with a 100% stock head i was.

It really is luck of the draw, meaning how good condition your head is to begin with.

That will determine if you will have issues.

There are people that do get problems, and people that dont have issues with the stock gear.

I guess over time eventually you might have issues, but how long, unsure and i dont think anyone could tell you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...