Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was up at race solutions this afternoon checked out your car very nice looks comfey inside . I thought the bubble on the back of the roof was a brake light till Matt said it was an aerial maybe I should get onea them for mine look good

Cheers Peter

  • Replies 147
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I don't know didn't ask the question ,tried to look after you gave em a little job and said its got priorty over everything somehow I dont think he beleived me :blink:

Cheers Peter

  • 2 weeks later...

Haltech are making a 20B loom for their E11V2 ECU - also doing some software changes to accomodate the Cosmo ignition system. Using my car to test everything..

All that should be done now - so we should be getting into the good bits soon. I haven't spoken to Matt for a few days - but I know Maroun is chanting at the bit to get started (and so am I).

More soon ......

226rwhp is the baseline.

Which is shit - OEM ECU is crap and running hell rich.

Next milestone is the new ECU with the stock setup - Hitman (matt) is uber confindent that we will get MUCH more power and economy, just with the ECU replacement.

Haltech are still working on ignition code and should be finished monday or tuesday - So that is the next dyno run.

After that - Compression check, full service and all the good bits go on.

More to come.......

226rwhp is the baseline.

Which is shit - OEM ECU is crap and running hell rich.

Next milestone is the new ECU with the stock setup - Hitman (matt) is uber confindent that we will get MUCH more power and economy, just with the ECU replacement.

Haltech are still working on ignition code and should be finished monday or tuesday - So that is the next dyno run.

After that - Compression check, full service and all the good bits go on.

More to come.......

this is before the t04 is fitted yeah?

YES mate - it's all still stock as a rock - they are getting the ECU right first - then fitting the good bits.

So the order of things goes like this:

1) Dyno run as I dropped it off to them - 226RWHP - Completed.

2) Install & tune the Haltech E11V2 ( so they can get a basemap for Haltech, so they can sell to other Cosmo owners whio just want the ECU changed) - Not completed

3) Dyno with just ECU and stock everything else. Not Completed

4) Fit the good bits (1600cc inj's, TO4Z, Fuel Pump, etc) - Not Complete

5) Tune with new bits - Not Complete

6) Dyno the final product - Not Complete.

So far we are between step 1 and 2

YES mate - it's all still stock as a rock - they are getting the ECU right first - then fitting the good bits.

So the order of things goes like this:

1) Dyno run as I dropped it off to them - 226RWHP - Completed.

2) Install & tune the Haltech E11V2 ( so they can get a basemap for Haltech, so they can sell to other Cosmo owners whio just want the ECU changed) - Not completed

3) Dyno with just ECU and stock everything else. Not Completed

4) Fit the good bits (1600cc inj's, TO4Z, Fuel Pump, etc) - Not Complete

5) Tune with new bits - Not Complete

6) Dyno the final product - Not Complete.

So far we are between step 1 and 2

yay :)

i just assumed that as its been there a few weeks already they would have dyno'd it before now hence my confusion...

but coolio

cant wait for updates :)

Jimbo

Haltech have finalised the new code for ignition - a bit tricky the way it had to be done.

260 HP at the wheels with just the Haltech - standard boost 11.5:1 accross the board.

Engine is a little bit low on compression - but nothing to stop the next stage.

Stay tuned.

  • 1 month later...

Since engine was low on compression and I didn't want to risk anything - Have decided to go with a full race prep engine rebuild - which is why this is taking so long.

Fully Dowled block

Mild Ext. Port

Race seals and spring

The whole shebang

then all the good stuff goes on

Should be ready end of Jan.

Yeah Pete,

They were gone a long time ago - all three std cats have been given the boot. Actually the whole std exhaust has gooooone - Have a nice brand new shiny 3" -> 2 x 2.5" system with one big i flow cat. no resonator and two cannons at the rear - Zorst is FREE FLOW man

Since engine was low on compression and I didn't want to risk anything - Have decided to go with a full race prep engine rebuild - which is why this is taking so long.

Fully Dowled block

Mild Ext. Port

Race seals and spring

The whole shebang

then all the good stuff goes on

Should be ready end of Jan.

Good.. told you not to bother with an unopened motor :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...