Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all I have been looking at some R34 GTT and some people have been telling me that its hard to pull out power from this car, I was wondering for those who have R34 whether this is true. I would gather that the car is slightly heavier than a R33 GTST, but what do guyz reckon

Thanks in Advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

I dont see how it would be any different than extracting more power from a 33. The 34 gtt has a slightly bigger cooler and slightly less restrictive exhaust, hence doing a cooler and exhuast to it will reap slightly less results than in a 33 gtst. But then again you have more power and torque to begin with...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2641798
Share on other sites

Hi all I have been looking at some R34 GTT and some people have been telling me that its hard to pull out power from this car, I was wondering for those who have R34 whether this is true. I would gather that the car is slightly heavier than a R33 GTST, but what do guyz reckon

Thanks in Advance

Those ppl that are telling u this...have any of the driven or owned a 34 gtt?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2641805
Share on other sites

$4200 and you will have around 230-250rwkw

FMIC $400 (any cheapy copy)

Turbo Back Exhaust $1000

Slide Turbo $900

Power FC $1000

EBC $400

Fuel Pump $200

FPR $200

Pod Air Filter $100

* Above prices are rough estimates; obviously prices fluctuate and change depending on when you get it and what you get.

It's not hard to draw power from the R34GTT; most of the members here have done the pioneering "research" into what works and what doesn't so all you have to do is read and fork out the cash.

NOTE:

* Auto R34GTTs are a complete headache to modify; I've spent a tonne of hours and dollars going around in circles trying to make things work (yes, one of the pioneers here). So even though you might save a few thousand on the cost of the car; you definitely won't keep that in your wallet for long once you start modifying :happy:

* Manual R34GTT; just follow the conventional methods of modification to any turbocharged car (except for the Cam gears, they do nothing)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645109
Share on other sites

NOTE:

* Auto R34GTTs are a complete headache to modify; I've spent a tonne of hours and dollars going around in circles trying to make things work (yes, one of the pioneers here). So even though you might save a few thousand on the cost of the car; you definitely won't keep that in your wallet for long once you start modifying :happy:

Just wondering stan.. besides not being able to run a PowerFC on an auto GTT - why is it so difficult?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645118
Share on other sites

Hi all I have been looking at some R34 GTT and some people have been telling me that its hard to pull out power from this car, I was wondering for those who have R34 whether this is true. I would gather that the car is slightly heavier than a R33 GTST, but what do guyz reckon

Thanks in Advance

lol mate were they wogs driving VLs?

theres so many members on here who have turned their stock 34 into a monster with some simple mods....

34s aint JUST a bigger cooler and a less restrictive exhuast....the engine....compared to a r33 is also better. being a new NEO version of the RB25DET it has alot more advantages over the 33.

aside from all that im sure theres also alot more

i watched a import mag dvd where it showed a r34 gtt being dynoed and it gained an extra 10kws from a turbo back exhaust. increasing the boost to .85 bar gave the rear wheels 200kws

i dunno maybe dats jsut me but i think dats pretty easy.

Edited by anDru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645135
Share on other sites

Just wondering stan.. besides not being able to run a PowerFC on an auto GTT - why is it so difficult?

Well you answered your own question didn't you Howie :happy: 1) It's auto, weak gearbox that will blow up on you if you don't do something about it. 2) The auto zaps a fair amount of power from what you are making and 3) the auto ECU is both a masterpiece and a freak of programming nature.

Sure you can stick with your SAFCs etc but soon you'll realize it just isn't enough. 3 options: 1) HKS F-CON V Pro, 2) PowerPlay Rom Tune and 3) Greddy E-Manage Systems

theres so many members on here who have turned their stock 34 into a monster with some simple mods....

34s aint JUST a bigger cooler and a less restrictive exhuast....the engine....compared to a r33 is also better. being a new NEO version of the RB25DET it has alot more advantages over the 33.

aside from all that im sure theres also alot simple

R34GTT also has a bigger turbo - most of you have forgotten this one which is the main reason for the power difference.

Other things different; the brakes, the suspension, the HICAS system, electronics, NCVS etc etc.

Companies don't release a new variant of a car to make it take steps backwards; they release them to show what new and IMPROVED things they've done to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645161
Share on other sites

Companies don't release a new variant of a car to make it take steps backwards; they release them to show what new and IMPROVED things they've done to it.

i dunno man....ive been hearing alot about mitsubishi and their evos.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645170
Share on other sites

Thanks stan that's what i pretty much though as well. So say i'm just chasing 200rwkw i'd be alright with the tiptronic? I just like the auto cuz i'm a lazy bugger these days :happy:

You'll be fine :happy:

i dunno man....ive been hearing alot about mitsubishi and their evos.......

Try telling that to the race team accross the road from us...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2645211
Share on other sites

i was told by a 33 owner at dyno day my 34 was putting out the same power as his 33. we had the same mods ,the only difference was he had a power fc and i didn't. i was also hitting r & r. all depends on how much money you throw at it.

him having a powerfc and yours not having one (and hitting r&r) is a pretty big difference in my opinion.

If you put a powerfc on yours (assuming its manual) the gap would open up a fair bit I'd imagine.

Simple fact is, you can get power out of a 33 or 34. They're both very well built and can handle much more than they came out the factory with... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2646072
Share on other sites

34s aint JUST a bigger cooler and a less restrictive exhuast....the engine....compared to a r33 is also better. being a new NEO version of the RB25DET it has alot more advantages over the 33.

I never said they were JUST a bigger cooler an exhaust, i was merely giving an example such as doing an exhaust mod on a 34 compared with a 33...

Any one who thinks it would be hard to extract power from a 34 would have to be nuts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141792-r34-gt-t/#findComment-2647118
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...