Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Attached is an intitial dyno of the HKS 3037S 56T I just had fitted.

I got him to keep the boost to 1 bar, and the AF ratios on the conservative side, as I was a bit paranoid about the plenum and the fact that I still havent fitted a head gasket.

Torque is very linear, the lower run was on 10lbs the upper on 1 bar, which comes up under 3krpm. Boost starts building at just over 2krpm. Also the car feels more responsive off boost, which could be due to the manifold that was done at the same time as the turbo, also had a front facing throttle body and plenum done.

All up it is awesome on the road, totally different car to drive. Top power was only 230kw @ 1 bar - cant wait to wind in some boost and get let the turbo show its true colours:D

  • Replies 283
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Steve

Attached is an intitial dyno of the HKS 3037S 56T I just had fitted.

I got him to keep the boost to 1 bar, and the AF ratios on the conservative side, as I was a bit paranoid about the plenum and the fact that I still havent fitted a head gasket.

Torque is very linear, the lower run was on 10lbs the upper on 1 bar, which comes up under 3krpm.  Boost starts building at just over 2krpm.  Also the car feels more responsive off boost, which could be due to the manifold that was done at the same time as the turbo, also had a front facing throttle body and plenum done.

All up it is awesome on the road, totally different car to drive.  Top power was only 230kw @ 1 bar - cant wait to wind in some boost and get let the turbo show its true colours:D

sweet results steve, when the cams and head gasket going in?

Rob, generally the amount of air flow will vary from trubo to turbo. Some turbos will make 200kw at the same boost another turbo will make 250kw. If I am not mistaken, the TD06 is acutally rated higher than the 3037, but give me an earlier spoolup anyday - personal preferance.

Also, your dyno was in shootout mode wasnt it? which will give a different figure to if its not in shootout mode.

Anyways, the part that truely impresses me is the long flat torque curve - thats the fun zone:)

paul, I have already tried bumping the boost to 1.2bar, but couldnt find anywhere local to really open her up. I sort of tried it, but got very sideways very quickly and there were a few cars about so I thought I would back off until I can find a nice open piece of road - just need a leave pass from the wife for the afternoon:)

It will be interesting to see how the GT30 you are fitting goes in comparsion - hurry up:D

INASNT, not putting cams and gasket in until I get the plenum sorted so probably a couple of months off unfortunately:( It will be interesting to see how it goes at 1.5-1.6 bar.

Steve: Is that the smallest turbine housing? 0.61A/R? I have the 0.73A/R. Yours is the 56T trim right?

rob77: Your TD06 would be a much larger than the GT3037S seeing that you have the 20G and the turbine housing of Steve's is 0.61A/R. Hence lower in rated horsepower, but a lot more responsive. It would be interesting to compare your TD06 to a GT3037S with a 1.12A/R turbine housing...both are comparable in size. I think the results would be very similar.

Steve, EVOIV,

fyi, the TD06SH L2 20G is actually rated at less power than the 56T GT3037S.

although, i guess the difference in exhaust housing A/Rs is what is making the difference b/w power/response on these two engines.

Steve,

with an A/R .73 exhaust housing, you'll definitely pick up atleast 10-15rwkw on the same boost.

good stuff btw, nice power/torque curve.

Yeah, I always wondered how manufacturers "rated" their turbos. Does anyone know? I also get confused as to how a GT3037S 56T turbo can be rated at 480PS, regardless of the turbine housing A/R used? I know the A/R makes a difference in lag, and I would expect the top end power to be higher with a larger A/R? Same goes for all other turbos. Confusing. I guess power also depends upon other things, like tuning and what others mods you may have.

RS500, where did you get the info about the TD06 being rated lower?

I wouldnt mind trying a larger AR, but I am not sure I want to loose the response which is pretty awesome, much better than I had hoped. HKS actually use the 0.87 AR on the 3037 they sell for skyline in complete bolt on kit form. I am just not sure I want to spend the $$ to find out that I prefer the 0.61 housing.

Why would just putting a larger housing pick up more power at the same boost?

EVOIV, 0.61 is the smallest, and yes its a 56T.

Originally posted by Steve

RS500, where did you get the info about the TD06 being rated lower?  

I wouldnt mind trying a larger AR, but I am not sure I want to loose the response which is pretty awesome, much better than I had hoped.  HKS actually use the 0.87 AR on the 3037 they sell for skyline in complete bolt on kit form.  I am just not sure I want  

to spend the $$ to find out that I prefer the 0.61 housing.  

Why would just putting a larger housing pick up more power at the same boost?  

EVOIV, 0.61 is the smallest, and yes its a 56T.

Steve,

check out the following turbo comparison table and you'll see that the GT3037S is actually rated at higher hp than the largest of the Trust TD06 20G.

http://fangartists.com/pics/turbo_comparison.jpg

the larger housing will decrease the amount of back-pressure in the exhaust housing allowing exhaust gasses to flow more freely giving higher hp at the cost low-down turbo response.

Actually, the .61 would be perfect for my 2L cossie ;)

btw, would any of you guys care to part with any of these GT3037S' that you have in your possession?? :D

EVOIV,

having the larger exhaust housing will bring the compressor into it's efficiency range of air-flow at a higher rpm but given the decrease in back-pressure, it will flow more gas hence more power, especially at higher boost.

the rule of thumb generally is that the bigger you go in the exhaust housing, the more you air/gas flow you get at higher rpm while sacrificing down low air-flow and response, whereas going smaller will allow more air/gas flow at lower rpm while sacrificing air/gas flow at higher rpm, hence loss of power.

EVOIV,

actually, a turbo's "rated hp" is affected by the different A/R sizes of an exhaust housing.

fyi, we'll take Ray Hall's GT series website as the prime example as to illustrate what we are talking about.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/GTseries.html

when looking at the CHRA assemble section, the following GT30 core is rated at 600hp (700177-0014).

that's all nice, although when this turbo is bought complete with an A/R .84 exhaust housing, it is only rated at 550hp (SB8006A) and infact it needs the A/R 1.06 housing to make the rated 600hp.

does this make sense??

yeah, i've made up my mind, i want a HKS GT3037S :D

why don't u just give me the 3037 that's on your EVO, then that'll prompt you to fix the other one so that you can get your car on the road ;)

Yes, I had always thought that the A/R affected the rated horsepower. The GT3037S is rated at 480PS (56T), so I am guessing that is with the largest A/R which I believe is 1.12? Considering this, I would expect my turbo to be rated around 400PS, which seems quite reasonable giving the power it produced.

Both turbos are off my car and I have the stock one back on. Don't worry, I am going to get the turbo sent to Sydney very soon. So when that happens, and hopefully if/when it's repaired...I'll let you know asap :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...