Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I can't seem to find anything on this...

Everytime i go over about 100k's in my car i have this weird clicking noise coming from the dash.

I have nooo idea what it is. A friend susgested it might be like a speed warning noise.

Anyone have any clues on this?

Cheers

Corinne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142001-weird-clicking-noise-in-dash/
Share on other sites

you have to take off the instrument cluster

there's a small silver box attached to the back that activates this noise

i spent abotu 30mins one day and cut it off and i haven't looked back :P

cheers,

Warren

Ah i might get someone else to do it when they fix the speedo... my speedo is out about 20k's so i might get a new cable i think.. that could be the problem... or just get the same one recalibrated.

ey, yer just remove the green wire from the circuit board on the back of the speedo. Too much effort removing the box. Just leave it there. 15 minute job.

also, i found that my speedo being out was caused by the little plastic piece that connect the (instrument cluster) to the speedo cable in the back. it was cracken around the edge. so i just glued it together and left it in the vice over night. and put it back in....now it doesnt shake nor is it out.

cheers,

daniel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...