Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t W/gate Actuator

skidkid

By skidkid,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

skidkid Proficient

skidkid

Posted
Posted

Fellow boosters! :) I fitted an R32gts-t wastegate actuater to my S2 (neo) Stagea 2day and hit 15psi with light throttle. I have read that the 32 act. holds 10psi. When I removed Neo act. I lined it up against the 32 act. and a steel wheel 33 turbo I have. The free length of all the act. is the same. The mounting point to w/gate flap on Neo measured the same as on the 33. I can't work out how I ended up with 15 psi. I am able to make Neo act. arm adjustable to screw up to 10-11 psi. Would there be more gain/ control buying atleast Jacar Boost controller? I did do a search to try and answer my question. Go the Stagea!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142110-r32-gts-t-wgate-actuator/
Share on other sites
AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

The difference comes from the fact that the wastegate arms are welded on different angles from R32's to R33/34's. (as in, on the turbo, the little arm connected by the rod to the flap (wastegate))

You wont have much luck with an R32 actuator on a 33/34 turbo as it will just be on too much pretension, resulting in massive boosting like you are seeing. (I think, at least, that makes sense in my mind)

What you can do if you want to tighten your actuator spring is to drill a hole closer to the diaphram on the actuator rod, so you would have two holes next to each other, the stock one and a tighter one. The tighter hole, if right next to the stock one, will boost around the 9psi mark id estimate. This would be using the NEO actuator.

I have a drilled, r33 actuator on a turbo thats got an r32 actuator arm, and I boost around 9psi minimum.

THOUGH....honestly mate, Jaycar IEBC is the way to go... or at least just a "TurboTech"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...