Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY guys at the moment i have 210rwkw, and the clutch another (unnamed) workshop supplied me is absolutely poo, has lasted roughly 3 - 4 months? or so and it slipped today.. i was promised it will neva die no mater what i do to it, so iv been thrashing my car, raced it at calder, 2nd gear burnouts, drifting etc, u name it. I find this clutch is shocking, the exedy organic my brother has in his 180sx has lasted nearly 2 years and hasnt slipped yet.

Should i buy the cushion butten exedy like the ones kudos motorsports supplies? or just a race ceramic clutch? i need something that will last.. without spending heaps (as i dont have heaps) Something to support 250 - 270 kw everyday.

Thanks. Phill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/
Share on other sites

Everthing you said up to,

I need something that will last without spending heaps.

With modified cars that doesnt happy sorry mate.

You pay for what you get.

You are better off saving your money and spending it on a clutch that will last, not cheap crap, it just shows your other clutch only lasted 3-4 months.

At that rate its about 3 or 4 clutches a year.

I know its unfortunate but we do it for the love of cars.

I have a twin plate exedy 1100kg clutch, its been in for two years.

The car runs 440rwhp.

Good luck with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2652206
Share on other sites

what about a 5puck brass button exedy? they any good?

Mate im not an expert on clutches, but i know exedy have a good name and you pay for it. I havent heard a bad report about them.

I know brass button cluthes are a pain in the arse in heavy traffic and hill starts, but you get used to it.

Look on ebay for cluthes there are a few for sale.

Edited by subzeroR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2652428
Share on other sites

If your launching dont expect the button one to last unless its being modified for has good clamping pressure.

I blasted a exedy button one in 470km's after having a HKS TWIN now I have the new exedy twin plate, at the time I had around 300rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2653470
Share on other sites

i have a exedy heavy duty cushion button kit in my silvia had it for about a year now, it takes everything i through at it im making 245kw out of my rb, and it see's the track twice a month, and the kit only cost me $460.00

That sound awesome.Im up for a new one too.How would it compare to the extreme ones just jap sell for $550?

Also can you give the info of where you got your one???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2656697
Share on other sites

I know its a little off topic, but im looking for a clutch for mine too in the near future and dunno wat to get...

ONy jsut got the car freshly imported, and only ever gonna have it running a max of around 180-200rwkw it currently has a stock clutch im assuming as it is light as and easy to use

in my old car i used extreme cltuches i didnt mind them but it was in an awd bluebird with about 160-170 awkw they are hugely heavy (bent the peddle box) and very harsh to drive with, but seemed to hold up to the pressure of huge launches ect

what would people reccomend eg brand, and type (not just brand i.e cushioned multi-button, ceramic ect) for daily driving and all round pefromance, as in occasional launching, bit of a muck around drifting and the usual... but still farily streetable that the mrs can have a drive and not struggle too much with it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2672112
Share on other sites

i would love a jim berry ash, but how much will one of those cost? i want to spend around 500bux as i spent 600 on this one and its pretty shizen for 210rwkw IF THAT... (if the dyno tells the truth)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2675011
Share on other sites

Hey Phill. I just replaced mine with a Exedy cushion button clutch. Go see Levi down at

Autobahn in Epping and tell him you want it for the same price your mate with the Blue R33

got it for which was $500. :no:

Edited by mickr33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2675321
Share on other sites

i would love a jim berry ash, but how much will one of those cost? i want to spend around 500bux as i spent 600 on this one and its pretty shizen for 210rwkw IF THAT... (if the dyno tells the truth)

around $1200, but best to ring.

With you planned power mods, its worthwhile to do it now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2675803
Share on other sites

Ring the man, have a chat.

Make sure you tell him your intentions and you'll get something to suit.

But a $500 clutch isnt going to take 260rwkw and the abuse drifting will have it go through.

well... i lie... it will, but not for long. Then another $500 clutch and your OVER $1400 (inclu labour) which is what a decent cluch would cost to begin with

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2679534
Share on other sites

ash.. the last workshop who fitted my clutch ended up costing 1300 including clutch... because they didnt see i had a bent clutch fork and broken pivot... so box out twice and in twice... 4 months later, it feels like shit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142117-which-clutch/#findComment-2681740
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...