Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a vg30 turbo on mine hopefully be pushing around 220rwkw soonish, just wondering what a highflow would do for the same boost say 17-18psi... im gettin over this lagg shit, althought it see's 15psi by bout 3200-3500 still laggy to me.i would love a 25/30 turbo however i dont think the bank will like it..

Hi-flow will only make lag worse, not that i'd call 15psi by 3200-3500 lagy

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a vg30 turbo on mine hopefully be pushing around 220rwkw soonish, just wondering what a highflow would do for the same boost say 17-18psi... im gettin over this lagg shit, althought it see's 15psi by bout 3200-3500 still laggy to me.i would love a 25/30 turbo however i dont think the bank will like it..

I've had a VG30DET on my RB20det.. They have stuff all mid range and don't really get going until the higher gears. General driving rolling on out of corners in second I saw 1bar by 4000rpm ish. Loaded up in fourth I saw 1bar by a shade over 3000rpm.

The VG30DET turbo is nothing more than a RB20DET turbo with slightly larger covers to shift the power up the rev range a little (which is what a 3ltr needs) so it may struggle to crack 190-200rwkw.

They generally push 10-15rwkw max over an RB20DET turbo but with a lot less mid range. The RB25det turbo kicks its arse, it has a larger compressor and a smaller hotside that gets things moving a lot earlier. The rb25's hot side is sized good enough to make 200rwkw.

Obviously depending on dyno.

I went to get a copy of the last run i did but couldn't find it. so we put it back on the dyno did another run.

It looks a lean up top but it is just as he came off throttle. sorry about the stupid scaling for the RPM. i didn't ask for any particular scale. the ramp rate looks ridiculous but if it started from 3000 rmp it would look more normal :)

dyth.jpg

The numbers are very tidy. You should be happy - it looks to hold the power very easily across 5500 - 7000. The AFR overlay really demonstrates what you've done at peak torque rpm. I take it that was for knock-prevention?

Two things I'd like to see:

the torque curve (instead of power)

a dyno pull starting down at around 16-1800rpm

Just gives me a better interpretation of what it does (and yeah I know you're not likely to run an RB20 down there very much).

The numbers are very tidy. You should be happy - it looks to hold the power very easily across 5500 - 7000. The AFR overlay really demonstrates what you've done at peak torque rpm. I take it that was for knock-prevention?

Two things I'd like to see:

the torque curve (instead of power)

a dyno pull starting down at around 16-1800rpm

Just gives me a better interpretation of what it does (and yeah I know you're not likely to run an RB20 down there very much).

yep the dip is an effort to keep it slightly rich when it reaches peak torque. it it probably a little over enthusiastic. but better that than knock at 18psi :)

I have an old printout of torque when the car was making 204rwkw with the same turbo but just quick tune,

Jeff from TSL can probably organise a printout of torque and rpm starting lower.

I think Simon's car is making very similar power? i think i read 225 somewhere? There will be almont no difference in between our cars. the difference between 220rwkw and 240rwkw on an RB20 with the same turbo will be more wheelspin :laugh:

They are amazing results for a std RB20 with a bolt on hi-flow turbo. They appear to be well above the results ppl can expect from a GCG Hi-Flow, HKS 2535, hell even my TD06. That power and response from only 18psi. Hell i think i t even has a HKS GT-RS beaten!

Is it possible to get a chart with road speed rather then rpm and boost?

They are amazing results for a std RB20 with a bolt on hi-flow turbo. They appear to be well above the results ppl can expect from a GCG Hi-Flow, HKS 2535, hell even my TD06. That power and response from only 18psi. Hell i think i t even has a HKS GT-RS beaten!

Is it possible to get a chart with road speed rather then rpm and boost?

Bugger me I thought I was the only one thinking that. :)

im pretty happy with mine atm... onlything holding me up from more power is injectors and AFM wich are on the cards soon enough.

I get no wheel spin whatso ever... pretty happy with that. just hauls. But thats largely due to my suspension set up.. even if it is used for drift.

And drift it does... bloody well. Had some 18X10 work wheels on the back with some 235's stretched on.. shredded them hard in 3rd and 4th gear... was pretty crazy :)

I have 215 maxxis tyres and while they are good with your boot in it once it hits 5000rpm in 2nd you loose all acceleration due to wheel spin

I am going to wind it back down to 1bar for normal use it is much more practical there.

cant really help out with the other graphs unless i pay the dyno man more money and he has plenty of mine already :)

I think what i am pushing is pretty much the max the turbo will flow on an RB20.

I did a bit of testing while it was there.

1. the stock rubber intake pipe was not closing at this power level, however the dyno operator said they usually do past 220rwkw.

2. removing the panel filter and just running 1/2 an air box with no filter made no difference at all. the stock air box is fine for this power level.

3. the stock BOV holds 18psi with no problems.

4. my clutch is now slipping and a 5puck cerametallic is going in next week with a new gearbox.

5. skylines are almost as expensive as a well formed crack habit.

6. sliding performance turbos will probably help you pick up girls

I have 215 maxxis tyres and while they are good with your boot in it once it hits 5000rpm in 2nd you loose all acceleration due to wheel spin

I am going to wind it back down to 1bar for normal use it is much more practical there.

cant really help out with the other graphs unless i pay the dyno man more money and he has plenty of mine already :)

I think what i am pushing is pretty much the max the turbo will flow on an RB20.

I did a bit of testing while it was there.

1. the stock rubber intake pipe was not closing at this power level, however the dyno operator said they usually do past 220rwkw.

2. removing the panel filter and just running 1/2 an air box with no filter made no difference at all. the stock air box is fine for this power level.

3. the stock BOV holds 18psi with no problems.

4. my clutch is now slipping and a 5puck cerametallic is going in next week with a new gearbox.

5. skylines are almost as expensive as a well formed crack habit.

6. sliding performance turbos will probably help you pick up girls

#5 I'll second that notion.

I have 215 maxxis tyres and while they are good with your boot in it once it hits 5000rpm in 2nd you loose all acceleration due to wheel spin

I am going to wind it back down to 1bar for normal use it is much more practical there.

cant really help out with the other graphs unless i pay the dyno man more money and he has plenty of mine already :laugh:

I think what i am pushing is pretty much the max the turbo will flow on an RB20.

I did a bit of testing while it was there.

1. the stock rubber intake pipe was not closing at this power level, however the dyno operator said they usually do past 220rwkw.

2. removing the panel filter and just running 1/2 an air box with no filter made no difference at all. the stock air box is fine for this power level.

3. the stock BOV holds 18psi with no problems.

4. my clutch is now slipping and a 5puck cerametallic is going in next week with a new gearbox.

5. skylines are almost as expensive as a well formed crack habit.

6. sliding performance turbos will probably help you pick up girls

#3 i can tell you the stock bov can hold 20psi no problem :laugh:

why bother with aftermarket?!?

I have been having a really good look at a few things and have come to the conclusion that my RB20 is may well be an RB22.

I took the timing belt cover off tonight to find that it has a new looking aftermarket timing belt. that didn't add up as the previous owner said it was due to be changed.

then on further inspection i dug through old receipts to find when the timing belt was done and found a receipt for 6 81mm 4agze pistons...

go figure.

I guess i am really happy about it I really can't confirm it is the case without taking the head off.

seeing as Simon is making 225rwkw the results are almost identical.

Now i am puzzled....

I doubt it has 81mm pistins. My bigger TD06 is making:

- 100rwkws @ 3850rpm

- 207rwkws @ 4620rpm

- 237rwkws @ 5380rpm

- 239rwkws @ 6920rpm

gallery_462_50_8431.jpg

Those figures are not on a dyno dynamics dyno so are 10rwkws or so below what most DDs read.

What are the wheel sizes of the high flow? I would think they are no bigger then the TD06??? So wouldnt expect it to have more inertia???

So i would expect if yours had the extra 3mm bore and ccs it would spool up a little better.

But you never know, the difference could be in the turbo and you have the 81mm pistons...but my money is its a stocker.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...