Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Antenna Help R33

aLENO

By aLENO,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

aLENO Rookie

aLENO

Posted
Posted

hey, im new to the forums i own a r33 gtst and im having troulbe with my radio antenna i want to disconect it have tried unpluging from the back of the deck but still done the same thing and came up. i dont no wat else i could do if somone can help thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142633-car-antenna-help-r33/
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

From what i've read, some headunits don't come with an antenna control wire on the back of it, so installers (or owners) wire it in with the ignition wire (out of the back of the headunit)

So... if the antenna comes up when you turn the car or stereo on (CD too, not just radio) then it's like that. Find the wire that travb81 mentioned, and remove that from the connection.

Otherwise, it's hooked up to the antenna control output of the headunit, as trav said.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Okay, I might as well jump into this thread instead of starting a new one.

My R33 Series 1 aerial is ALWAYS up... It won't come down. Now, I thought the Green/Red would have been connected to the constant 12V, as even when the car is off, it stays up...

Problem is, I can't find a single Green/Red cable, except one that is connected to nothing, but also has silver dots on it...

My other issue is, which is the illumination wire?

I can't manually turn my headunit to dim, I need this wire, or does it (the illumination wire from dash) just go High (12V) when the headlights go on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...