Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

The brakes on my 33 GTS have been squeeking a bit lately, so today I decided to pull a wheel or two off and have a look at them. Popped the front wheel off, took off the caliper and pads, took off the rotor and measured the thickness with a micrometer. It was 21.3mm. I have looked at the DBA Catalogue but can't find the specs for an R33 non-turbo. Not 100% sure why (I believe it's because I have an LSD, but not really sure) but I have 5 wheel studs... even though it's a non-turbo... meh anyway the GTST is specified as having a 28mm minimum thickness on the front rotors... this means that either my rotors are 6.7mm under the minimum, or I have totally different brakes.

After finding this I decided to take a look at the rears. I pulled the wheel off, took off the caliper, but couldn't manage to get the rotor off... anyway i again measured with the micrometer and found that these were 8.6mm thick. The DBA Catalogue specifies 16mm as the minimum for the R33 GTST, so again either my rotors are MASSIVLY undersize (by 7.4mm) or are not the correct discs. I also noted (not sure if this is normal or not) that while the front discs were ventilated, the rears were solid.

Basically what I want to know is what the specs are for the new/minimum thicknesses for the R33 GTS, and is it that my brakes are massively undersize or off a totally different car?

Edited by Samon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142810-what-rotors-do-i-have/
Share on other sites

Not really sure if it means anything, but I also noted that I have twin-piston calipers on the front and single-piston calipers on the rear. Everything looks pretty standard under there.

After looking through my R33 ENGINE SERVICE MANUAL that i bought off eBay, i found that there are two specifications for front-brakes: 20mm minimum for the single-pot calipers, and 24mm minimum for the twin-pot ones. For the rears it specifies an 8mm minimum.

I am rather confused. Where did DBA get the 28mm and 16mm from? Also, my rears are within the nissan specs, but my fronts are within the specs for the single-pot, even though it has twin-pots. From looking at my front rotors it is extremely hard to believe that they were EVER the 26mm that the manual specifies for the standard thickness for the twin-pot calipers, so I think I will just leave it all as is and see how it goes. I certainly have no problems stopping, and haven't noticed any brake fade occurring, so i think it's alright.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...