Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got bored today as we were meant to go up to our uncles vineyard for a bit of a bbq and so forth.... didnt eventuate so....

i decided to paint some of the bits of my engine :P

still a bit iffy about the colour but silver is a little boring... feusha isnt really me (looks good on urs tho K :D)... ben in sydney had done gold and white will be a shit to keep clean.

so...

paintedbits.jpg

will have to leave them to dry overnight according to the instructions on the can.... might just leave them til later tonight and see how it goes.

hehe i couldnt be bothered doing one side at a time...

snorkels.jpg

including taking the bits off... scotchbriting them... priming... it took about 2 hours with the help of my GF :D will post up pics of what it looks like on the car when its done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14289-painted-engine-bits/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hehe yeah it was engine bay paint... im not QUITE that dumb :P

550degrees or something.... 238 celcius... or something like that..... hopefully its enough... there was another one there that was 1500 but the colours were limited and the can just looked the dodgiest that ive ever seen :D

crap i think i used the wrong primer... it was right next to the paint and made by the same ppl so i assumed it would be heat resistant.... i guess once i fit it all and go for a spin later we will find out :D

yellow looks ok with the silver on it.

rocker.jpg

pipe.jpg

i reckon it will look smichk once it's back in "da bay", silver and yellow looks awesome. Polish up some silver parts as well, i think it will go even better.

Now, can anyone tell me if Renault invented the turbo charger???? :confused: just saw the "ceramic turbo" silver plate from one of ni's pics, just reminded me of it.

i need to paint a few more things in the engine bay to make it look half decent.... also need some lead covers or something...

Before:

before.jpg

After:

after.jpg

afterside.jpg

only one prob and i knew this would happen.... i went for a drive to maccas and it is loosing boost.... ive gone from 12psi to about 7 to 8psi... everything seems to be on ok... but obviously not.

will have to check it out tomorow when there is light.

dale - yup... going to polish the cam covers next weekend and im trying to get this polished plenum from Adam in WA but i think someone else beat me to it... he hasnt emailed me yet.

got the simota (think thats what it is, had no labeling on the packet) and the adaptor from Auto-1 where troy (ylwgtr) works over the other side of the city... was when i first got to see troys beast :D and yeah 80 bucks and works like a charm.

gordon - yeah still got to paint a few more things to the left... getting a century battery also cause its about the same yellow hehe and when the cam covers and stuff are polished it should look pretty nice.

acs - :( theres a difference between LEDs and huge wings which offend the eyes and painting ur engine bay which no one can see unless u drive around without the bonnet on :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...