Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

60/40 more a track car

have a 4x4 for a daily

ive been told re55s are the go is anyoune running them and can you buy them in diffrent compounds as in harder/softer

Edited by spirosky33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2663194
Share on other sites

I personally think anything Dunlop are the best, but RE55s are cheaper and come up to temo quicker which is good for club sprints...bad if you want to do 10 more then 6 or so laps.

RE55s also dont seem to mind plenty of heat cycles. A friend that ran the Yokos on his GTR and another that runs them in the 944 Porsche series think that after a few heat cycles they are past their best, even though they may have plenty of trad left on them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2663467
Share on other sites

The Dunlop DZ02G are the best semis I have used, the bridgestone re55 are also excellent.

I've tried a bunch of other ones but have always been disappointed in comparison to those two - yoko A032R, yoko A048r, toyo 888, falken rs04v, falken rt215, kumho 712, dunlop d01j, dunlop d98j, bridgestone re540s.

But any of them will be chewed up in 5000klm especially if you are running a bit of camber.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2663874
Share on other sites

for 60/40 track/road use, you would probably be best off with a good road tyre designed to be used on the track sg:

Falken RT615 (treadware 200)

Federal 595RS (treadware 180)

These aren't as sticky as semi slicks but have stiffer sidewall construction than most normal road tyres.

These are the allround pick of semis. One of the cheapest, best and most common:

Bridgestone RE55S soft=WT, med=TT, hard=SR

Bridgestone RE540S soft=G, med=S, hard=R

others:

Dunlop DZ02G

Dunlop D01J

Yokohama A032R

Yokohama A048R

Kumho V70A

Toyo RA1

Toyo R888

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2664474
Share on other sites

somthing sticky but not going to be chewed awy in 5000ks?

Most / All true Semi Slicks will be all but worn within 5000kms

My advice is go for the Federal 595-RS's

I had not driven on anything but street tyres until I bought these, at a recent track day I noticed the difference in grip levels and overall confidence they gave over the old Bridgestone road tyres was massive!

Infact I dropped almost 3 seconds in Lap times.

I imagine a true semi slick would be another level up again and would be good for another second off my lap time, but the tread life they offer is not enough for me as I do not want to run 2 sets of rims.

You should comfortably acheive 15'000kms from the Federals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2671935
Share on other sites

RE55's are the best bang for buck I have used.

And I've tried DJO1, DZ02, RE540 and A048's as well.

Just have a set of R888's on my car now but I'm not expecting much from them to be honest (only have them because they were free).

The only tyres I'd buy however are RE55's (SR compound - which is all they'll have unless you specify otherwise)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2673540
Share on other sites

I have used RE55S, great grip, but only got a bit over 1500kms out of them

I have also used RE540, better wear, a little less grip

I am currently running Federal 595RS, cheapest of the bunch, grip is very good, they are on my daily which sees a track at least once a month and have lasted for nearly 6 months now, and still have more than 1/2 tread left

Best bang for buck, especially for street driven car IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142897-semi-slicks/#findComment-2674472
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...