Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there

had a tune on the car not too long ago - only been out to the track once with it as it was... basically had powerfc / z32 / gtr inj / hks 2530 / rb24... results were 220 @ 1bar as i didnt have a boost controller and thats what the actuator was set at...

ok so last friday i get it back to the dyno with a gizzmo ibc fitted, i was told all i would need is a power run just to make sure once i have it fitted, just get the a/f ratios checked with the extra boost. fair enough :)

originally the tune was air fuel ratios 12 - 13's so fairly good. Now with any sorta boost at all above 1 bar or at 1bar, its running 14's in the fuel ratio's...

only things changed were - adding of the IBC - change of fuel filter (ryco z200) / oil filter (K&N) / air filter (K&N) / oil (motul 300v 10w40).

has anybody had any similar problems like this?

i also have an inconsistant misfiring problem, which may be injector plug as its only number 2 cylinder cutting spark. i will be pulling the loom out to check for green goop and clean everything up appropriately. check the link for no spark issue -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=141348

thanks

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142925-weirdness-on-dyno/
Share on other sites

Is it just me: I consider anything above 12 (a/f) lean.

I would prefer to have a/f ratios sitting at 11.5 - 12.

As Adriano has stated, you need to get the Pfc re-tuned. If you still can't lower the a/f ratio start looking at upgrading parts of the fuel system.

yep as you increased the boost

its increase P (load) so its moved it down on the load map a bit more to an un-tuned area, so its leaner than you like. solution get it tuned with the safest boost you can run at the correct setting, ie: don't have hi or low, or if you do, tune for both, which means more $$$

yeah i will simply get a tune for max boost, which will be free of charge as long as nothing else is wrong...

i am running a walbro intank pump, never had a problem with it before and it has easily made almost 240rwkw in the same car.

running a stock FPR

so i'm guessing the ebc is simply bringing the whole curve over (so more boost earlier than it was before) and now where there used to be fuel there isnt, because the curve has moved over from ebc. ?

as for misfire - i found lots of green goopy shit on a couple inj plugs so clean them up or possibly replace.

thanks

check afrs once solve all your issues, maybe get a retune\check.

has the timing been moved?

not a fan of powerfc...

why not? any other ecu would have done the same thing.

he tuned for a given level of airflow, then adding in more air, so it moved the max load points on the map.

a new fuel filter can make it run a bit leaner. if the old filter wasn't very dirty, but had done a bit of work it probably didn't filter as well as it should and let more fuel through than in filtered. then when you put the new filter in it is a bit more restrictive.

well sorta thinking this... can it make that much of a difference, i have noticed a LOT more flutter with the new pod, and can hear the air sucking in.

also was thinking that it may get more fuel if old fuel filter was blocked...

If your car was tuned in the 12's and is now running in the 14's its running LEAN!

I.e you need a retune.

If your intake is flowing more air, but the tune remains the same it will run leaner

as the PFC doesnt compensate (unless tuned otherwise)

As with any intake, you will get increased induction noise which also means a louder

BOV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...