Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if the turbo is hotter how will the actual exhaust gases be hotter? its coming from the engine and spends 1 millisecond in the volume of the turbo - after which it may be 0.1 deg hotter but thats not going to matter since the gas has already done its work.

The larger exhaust works to increase the speed of the gas because there is a larger volume for the gas to expand into as it passes through the turbine - nothing to do with the temperature (except for the fact that the gas will be cooler due to the expansion).

there would be no reasonable way to make the exhaust gas hotter since it gets its heat from the compression and combustion within the engine cycle.

hotter was bad word usage...hotter in comparision to a turbo without the insulator as it just radiates heat...thats why you might want a shield and the initial question.

nothing to do with temp? when the gas expands and cools down...where does the heat go? in fact what do you think the heat is used for? ...its no suprise it expands..its deisgned to do it. The gas will be cooler...but thats not the aim...the aim it to turn the turbine using, partically, the heat generated during the process.

You seem to have some idea...so do you want me to go into the relationship between Heat/Pressure/Volume? we have sort of covered it...all of these are used to make the turbine spin. Its fact,mate...designed many years ago by people smarter than me and I even looked it up in my old physics book to be certain.

In short, gas temperature, pressure, and volume are all related. Compress a gas (reduce the volume) and pressure and temperature goes up. Let it expand, and temperature and pressure go down. Increase the temperature, and the pressure goes up (in an enclosed space) or the volume goes up (it expands). Finally, gases want to flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area, and the greater the difference, the bigger the push. (Pop a baloon, little bang. Pop a welding O2 cylinder, big bang)

read up on the The Ideal Gas Law. then relate it to the otto cycle in a 4 stoke engine...it will answer the aparent mistery.

kunjeng is correct on the temperature volume and pressure relationship

in diesel engine you don't need a spark plug as the diesel will detonate on its own due to the pressure..

if you have water under high pressure it'll boil on itself

however I'm not sure if heat loss is going to affect the energy change much...the exhaust spends only a split second in the housing before going out and the housing and dump pipe would eventually gets close enough to the exhaust temperature under operation, so will the dump pipe...

maybe as the engine go from cold start there is a large temperature gradient across, however at constant operation I'd think the difference is hardly noticable

unless you kinda go hard acceleration and sudden slow down... and hard acceleration again...sorta cycle thing unless on track don't think will ever go into such extremities

with heat shield the temperature across will be higher.... without heat shield the temperature will be lower, gradient remains the same

I think the main key to turbo operation is the nozzle size, the inducer and exducer ratio, how small the size of the nozzle when exhaust come into the housing and how big the exducer is..and the exhaust to compressor ratio...

and with regards to the blanket cracking the housing, that will happen if you dissipate heat too fast...if you pour hot water into a glass, empty it and immediately put ice in it..the glass will crack, try it at home~~...so retaining the heat and slowly dissipating it will not cause the housing to crack...if temperature is too hot, it'll melt but I think housing are of course design for these temperatures..

Its all about keeping the air in a high energy state to allow easier transfer of kinitec energy.

I dont have a blanket...dont care...this is all just theory. Remembering that many people use these.

it might be more bewteen runs..to keep the turbo hot rather than while driving.

The larger exhaust works to increase the speed of the gas because there is a larger volume for the gas to expand into as it passes through the turbine - nothing to do with the temperature (except for the fact that the gas will be cooler due to the expansion).

lol have you considered the mass conservation principle? cause that statement is wrong.

essentially in a closed system (e.g. a pipe without leakage) the mass of the substances remains constant.

it follows then that the mass flow is also constant (i.e. now fuel or air is either injected or lost between the inlet and outlet of the turbo).

hence: massflow at point 1 = massflow at point 2

also: massflow = density x velocity of gas x cross sectional area of pipe.

so what actually happens when you increase the size of a pipe for the same mass flow is a REDUCTION is gas velocity, which is accompanied by a reduction in pressure drop for the same length of pipe in comparison to the smaller pipe.

and as far as turbo blankets design for turbocharger performance is also crap. they limit at best the engine bay temperatures. cause increased temperatures within the bearing centre and oil coaking on shut down. WHICH is BAD! however if you have a water cooling circuit it will be ok, however take longer to cool.

Edited by AndrewD
so what actually happens when you increase the size of a pipe for the same mass flow is a REDUCTION is gas velocity, which is accompanied by a reduction in pressure drop for the same length of pipe in comparison to the smaller pipe.

thats right. so the reason this helps ur turbo spool is because you just increased the pressure differnece between the inlet and outlet of the turbo...Heat/Pressure/Volume its all related.

as for the blankets...yeah I rekcon you just need a shield for shield heat from ur bay...lol I think that was the topic of the post...

doesnt mean that increasing the pressure differential is a good thing. yes it helps 'spool' the turbo, however the pressure ratio may now be such that the turbine operates in an inefficient range.

its all theory mate. ..but I would assume the mods we are talking about are only minor and wouldn't have a massive impact in the presssure ratio and therefore not move the compressor efficency a huge amount...but I'm no expert.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...