Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Obviously you want something fully synthetic- I always use mobil 1, but hear that the top end Motul stuff (6100 or higher, like 300V?) is also very good.

People always complain that its too expensive when doing frequent oil changes, and that you can use cheaper oil because of the fact that its changed frequently (which does sound logical).

But its your engine, and the oil you put in it is all its got, why not give it the best :P

Also i suppose it depends how you drive it. If you redline it all the time, definitly go a good oil like the mobil. If you just cruise/potter it around i dont suppose it would really matter!

While on the topic of oil, can someone explain WHY turbo engines need synthetic oil!?

Cheers, NACHO

Yeah, I use Mobil 1.

I think synth oil can take the heat from the turbo better.

Also synth oil starts to break down at around 125-130 degrees, while the cheaper stuff breaks down at lower temps. That and the fact that the synth has better cold and hot lubricating properties.

J

Go Motul. I changed to 300V at the last change and it feels really good. 2000K and it is still like new, oil is still clear.

If you take the old oil down to the local servo (with mechanic of course, no point taking it to shell select!) and give them 5 bucks i'm sure they can get rid of it for you :)

Guest Oz Elitesport
Originally posted by Xeron

10w-60, u got a bad smoking or leak problem, cause if u dont get a lighter weight, check ur manual for what is recommended for ur areas temperature range, but ull be loosing a few horsies with that oil being so heavy when warm.

I'm using the castrol formula R (10W-60).

This has been recommended by others. Dont have a bad smoking or leaking problem, just took the advise of others.

Oz.

Castrol says this about their Formula R 10W-60 oil:

A full synthetic 10W-60 viscosity engine oil that ensures maximum protection under a wide range of driving conditions and high stress applications. It helps extend the life of your engine as well as minimise oil consumption. Originally developed for endurance sports car engines, it is recommended for highly stressed competition engines and older technology sports cars and luxury sedans.  

SAE 10W-60, API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3

About the 5W-30 oil they say:

A synthetic 5W-30 viscosity engine oil which enables faster acceleration with excellent engine protection and performance. If offers excellent engine cold start responsiveness and contributes to increased fuel efficiency. Recommended for highly tuned, four cylinder engines and latest technology engines requiring 5W-30 or 10W-30 viscosity. Approved for use by Porsche, VW, Audi and Mercedes-Benz.

SAE 5W-30, API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4

And the 0W-40:

A full synthetic, free flowing 0W-40 viscosity engine oil that significantly reduces friction, whilst delivering more power, greater protection, reduced emissions and superior fuel efficiency. Recommended for the latest technology and prestige engines, such as Porsche, BMW, Rolls Royce, VW, Audi, Jaguar, Rover and Mercedes-Benz.

SAE 0W-40, API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4

I can't remember exactly, but I *think* the owner's manual specifies 10W-50 grade oil. That would make the 30 and 40 weight oils a tad too thin. I'll have to check the owner's manual when I get home.

All of these Castrol synthetic oils are of very good quality though so it may not matter too much. Either way, I'm presently using the 10W-60 stuff and I have absolutely no bad things to say about it. The car doesn't use a single drop between oil changes.

If you're changing oil regularly and often, it shouldn't really matter which brand you choose. Just get a good quality fully synthetic oil and you'll be ok. I personally chose Castrol over the Mobil because I like Larry Perkins better than Peter Brock :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...