Jump to content
SAU Community

Gears


MistR33td
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys i got a R33 and evertime i try n change into 4th at about 4 thousand revs, so by the time u change its about 3500, the gear crunches, but it goes in, just crunches....just wanna kno wot i can do to fix it or it just goes away (doubt that, but u can always hope, lol). cheers for any advice guys :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could try chucking in some Redline Shockproof into the gearbox, of course, dumping your old oil first. I had a 1st to 2nd gear crunch and this seemed to fix it for me. Made my gear changes feel a lot more smoother too. Well worht it I reckon and should help you with your problem :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The crunchin when changing gears is the synchros which require friction to work correctly. While redline shockproof is an excellent gear oil for protecting the actual gears in a gearbox it isnt the best for the synchros. Castrol VMX 80 gear oil is a better option. The are a couple tricks that can be performed to reduce some build up of material on the synchros and reduce glazing. First one is to fill the gear box with a kero oil mix and run the gearbox through the gears with the wheels off the ground so there is no load. Dont do it for too long as it will eventually where the gears. The second trick is with the gearstick in neutral, the engine running and the clutch engage apply pressure to the gearstick towards the problem gear. Dont push it so hard that it drops into gear. These will only provide minor improvments. Nissan gearboxes are renowned for synchro problems and the only true solution is to replace them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nevernaughty..

I can say I've heard of the engine running clutch engaged and apply pressure to the problem gear.

I have recently started having issues with 4th gear when changing up from 6000rpm so I may give that ago. Failing that I will throw some synthetic castrol gear oil through it. The synth castrol stuff works well. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought that method was designed to "re-bed" the synchros. With the clutch pedal DISengaged, and the car at standstill, rev the enging to around 2000 and hold it there. Then pushthe gear knob down to fourth. It won't slip in.

I vaguely remember hearing something about doing it 20 times for 5 seconds, or 5 times for 20 seconds, but I cant remember which.

Disclaimer: You didn't hear this from me... :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My gearbox was fine, and after i changed my transmission oil with shell synthetic oil the following day my second gear started to crunch. I thought it was just maybe thicker oil than what was in before (dont know what was in before). I took to workshop and they replaced with lubrimax agritrans however it still crunches in the morning. Its weird how it just started happening after i changed my oil, it was fine before....

so should i just try a different oil ? is fixing syncros big job ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my car has the same problem when i go into 4th gear, and 5th. same problem when going into first when gearing down. i have to stop in nutral for a split second for it to go in ok. som1 told me its a skyline thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...