Jump to content
SAU Community

What Workshop To Take Stock R32 Gtst Too?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was wondering where in brisbane prefer south side of brissy I can take my r32 gtst to get a few small issues and installs done without being screwed over with high $$ prices or dodgy work.

Im currently in the process of sorting out my plan of mods for my R32 GTST...

Its pretty stock except for 3" hiflow cat and bee R exhaust (standard dump and engine pipe, standard boost, bov and sidemount intercooler and ecu)

Its currently running like crap (popping, backfiring after acceleration, but not missing and lacking power) so i need someone to take a looksie at it and sort out what the hell is going wrong.

It also needs a new clutch,a basic HD clutch or something to handle 200 -220rwkw's to be installed.

Once the car has a good basic setup to start with..

I just dont want to be treated badly or laughed at because my car isnt a big HP car with $$$ spent on it..

I've budgeted around $1500 for the clutch supply & install and diagnosing the problem, do you think thats a realistic figure? I'm thinking possibly the fuel pump is dying? i dont really know alot about how to diagnose issues..

So Thanks for any info offered

Cheers BOOSTA (Pete) :(

don't know any body in qld as i live in vic. altho i work for repco service and thier pretty good. my recermondation would to be to go and see them for your troubles and they should be able to do all the mod work you require. stnaded rate is $99h/r inc GST. (thats what it is in vic, should be the same)

one of our new merchanics used to work on the gold cost for repco and he's pretty decent.

good luck with the car man.

Hi guys,

I was wondering where in brisbane prefer south side of brissy I can take my r32 gtst to get a few small issues and installs done without being screwed over with high $$ prices or dodgy work.

Im currently in the process of sorting out my plan of mods for my R32 GTST...

Its pretty stock except for 3" hiflow cat and bee R exhaust (standard dump and engine pipe, standard boost, bov and sidemount intercooler and ecu)

Its currently running like crap (popping, backfiring after acceleration, but not missing and lacking power) so i need someone to take a looksie at it and sort out what the hell is going wrong.

It also needs a new clutch,a basic HD clutch or something to handle 200 -220rwkw's to be installed.

Once the car has a good basic setup to start with..

I just dont want to be treated badly or laughed at because my car isnt a big HP car with $$$ spent on it..

I've budgeted around $1500 for the clutch supply & install and diagnosing the problem, do you think thats a realistic figure? I'm thinking possibly the fuel pump is dying? i dont really know alot about how to diagnose issues..

So Thanks for any info offered

Cheers BOOSTA (Pete) :(

I've budgeted around $1500 for the clutch supply & install and diagnosing the problem, do you think thats a realistic figure? I'm thinking possibly the fuel pump is dying? i dont really know alot about how to diagnose issues..

I work at ABS springwood during the day and we are doing the exedy HD kits supplied and fitted including flywheel machine for $720. We used to do them for $700 but the price went up because we were buying so many...go figure.

Our number is (07)3808 3533

As for fuel pump dying, do a fuel flow and pressure test. This will tell you if your pump is healthy or not. There are many things that can cause the issues you are experiencing so I would assume it will not be a simple matter to diagnose.

stnaded rate is $99h/r inc GST. (thats what it is in vic, should be the same)

Man you should come up to Brissy, standard hourly rate will only set you back around $77/hr. Some workshops charge up to $80-$90 but this is only a select few around the place.

Hey guys

Thanks for the replies regarding the issues I have, I'll be stopping into ABS at springwood probably on the 29th to get the clutch done and then maybe try and get dan to have a look at it sometime as I really have heard great things about his work....

I have no idea how to do a fuel flow/pressure test on the pump? Im not very mechanically minded (plus lack of tools doesnt help)....

Thanks Guys

BOOSTA (Pete)

hey mate,

i use mercury motorsport (www.mercurymotorsport.com.au) they provide good quality work and good customer service. i wouldn't say the cheapest prices.. about $77 and hour, but they take their time and do it properly

plus, they can re-tune the stock r32 ecu now! so you're laughing...

they are in newmarket, about 5mins north of the city :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...