Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose Or Viper?

rb25_r32

By rb25_r32,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted

Well i've found one fundamental design flaw which means i WONT be buying the Viper 791... Something Chris and other may have touched on, but not clearly explained. If i was to buy the viper, i would be buying it as a remote start and turbo timer TOY, not an alarm or immobiliser, not for security.

Immobilisers normally have circuits which are Normally Open (NO). This means the immobilisation circuit is open, and car will not start, until the alarm module disarms, and applies power to the circuit. Cut power to the alarm, and the car will not start, because the immobilier needs to power up the relay to close the immobilised circuit.

The viper is a Normally Closed (NC) system, the circuit is normally closed, and the alarm must apply power to break the circuit. ie, cut the one power wire to the alarm, and the immobiliser will not keep the circuit open, meaning the circuit is not immobilised and the car can be started. Not a good immobiliser!

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chris Rogers
Chris Rogers

you meant to say you parallel import them. the 5900SS is NOT available in oz and the 791 is a B stock item from DEI meant for mexico. now going further on that DEI will not warrant any part of it so i

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

which is why I keep saying its all about the install..

I have a mate of mine (EE) that modded a 791 to do teh exact opposite of what you stated. did it simply becuase he could :D

  • 1 month later...
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Hi Chris.

This Mongoose alarm on ebay says it is Aust standard certified. So this should be fine to get installed right? The difference in price is huge!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MONGOOSE-M80G-CAR-A...1QQcmdZViewItem

if you want to pay EVERYTIME it breaks - yes. it has NO warranty despite what the seller says. (they are not a dealer and other dealers WILL NOT warrant it.)

MotoMan Rising Star

MotoMan

Posted
Posted
if you want to pay EVERYTIME it breaks - yes. it has NO warranty despite what the seller says. (they are not a dealer and other dealers WILL NOT warrant it.)

Because alarms break so often too....

And other dealers will warrant it.. You may not.. but don't speak for every installer/dealer around

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Hey Chris i did sum research on the mongoose wedsite n it says got 11 programmable features. what r they ? can we get a module or something make it to auto start ?

Thanks

it does haev them. no module for RS though.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
yeah I've got a Viper 791. I've found it to be great. I had my installer put in an extra two immobiliser points, plus a remote kill switch...

I dont know how helpful this will be for insurance purposes, although its bound to slow the pros down for at least another 30 seconds! :happy:

The remote start feature is the best thing about it for me.. The amount of damage I'm saving on the engine is not calculable, but surely good in the long run. That marketing campaign a few years back for an oil company said that a majority of engine damage is done when the engine is cold. Anyway thats just a perk.

If I had my choice again, I'd have a very difficult decision - although I'd probably end up with the M80 for security purposes. People cant say that their Viper alarm is great because their car hasnt been stolen! It's not until you lose your car that you will change your mind! haha

The remote start and auto window winding is awesome, although window winding can be implemented into most alarms i think?

Conclusion:

Buy the Viper for - Remote start, Flashy remote, 2 Way paging (only if its parked in your garage or within a few hundred metres- sif you aint gonna hear the exhaust anyway!!), engine saving ability if you religiously use the remote start to warm your engine

Buy the M80 for - Security - Black Wiring = harder to steal, Insurance approved (check the viper with your insurance company tho), possibly cheaper, easier to find replacement parts

using remote start to warm your engine is the worst possible thing you could do to your motor, and is causing more engine wear. yes most engine wear is caused when the engine is cold, starting your car when old, then letting it idle for an extended period and SLOWLY warm up just prolongs the amount of time the engine is operating at less than optimum temp. you should be hopping in the car, starting it, let it set for 10 seconds to ensure the oil temp is up, then drive out and heat the engine by driving it.

as for the viper being good, listen to what the car security pro's keep saying over and over. they have wanky features, but zero substance. I'd much rather have my car unstolen then have a massive fancy remote and useless features.

ras1983 Experienced

ras1983

Posted
Posted

the previous owner installed a viper alarm. but i have no idea what it is. can anybody tell me how the hell i can find out? i've checked the engine bay and i can't seem to find where the module is.

if somebody could pm me with the possible location of the module(for security purposes obviously) that would great.

EDIT: fortunateley the owner before that(the first owner) fitted a 3-point vdo immobiliser which i am thinking of reconnecting in place of the viper. i just did a few tests. i prefer the vdo.

K N P Collaborator

K N P

Posted
Posted
the previous owner installed a viper alarm. but i have no idea what it is. can anybody tell me how the hell i can find out? i've checked the engine bay and i can't seem to find where the module is.

if somebody could pm me with the possible location of the module(for security purposes obviously) that would great

most likely under drivers side dash

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...