Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33, stock except for 3 inch turbo back mandrel exhaust, pod filter.

I found that i had a compliance 2.5" cat, so i figured it's restricting the system, and changed it to an xforce 3" highflow.

A quick rundown on my boost gauges. they're both splitfire. Gauge A runs off the factory nipple on the plenum and is mounted on my steering column. Gauge B runs off the hose going to the bov(was there when i got it), and sits in my glovebox for double checking stuff like this.

Before the new cat, Gauge B showed about 0.5psi above Gauge A. So boost was showing as 8.5psi on A, and 9psi on B.

After the new cat they show 9psi on A, and 8psi on B.

If they both went up or both went down, it'd make sense. but they've gone in opposite directions. wtf?

Firstly, someone re-assure me that there is no way the new cat is causing more restriction than the compliance cat (which was not gutted or damaged). ie. it was a sound move, and of benefit to the system, even though i couldve gone with a more expensive option like a 5inch big body catco, but i didnt.

Secondly...what is with the boost readings?

I've confused myself, and you, no doubt. If you've read thru this, congratulations, you're more patient than i am.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144130-lets-see-you-answer-this-onegenius/
Share on other sites

ambient temps both the same?

you werent taking one reading from a cold night

and the other form a hot day or something similar?

either way, if both gauges have taken two different readings contrary to each other... makes me wonder about how accurate they are

boost guages are not acurate at all, also length of vacuum hoses may make some difference aswell, and guages are only a guide not a real representation of what the hell is going on, if you wanted results dyno it then see how acurate the guages are, compared to dyno result of boost, plus dont forget the error that may be seen from reading at an angle, same as if passenger looks at your speedo from an angle it will look different to what it really is, same as if you go by your speedo guage then your stupid as 99.9% of them are in accurate.

My opinion on this

Not only saying that, how do you know there isnt the slightest leak in one of the vacuum to guage hoses??? :S

Edited by Devils_Advocate21

i understand that gauges arent accurate etc. and leaks can cuase bad readings.

but...the gauges were reading about 0.5psi apart, and now they're reading 1 psi apart in the opposite direction.

u see?

also, is it even possible that a highflow cat can cause more restriction than the standard cat?

even if it is the cheap xforce option i went with?

the readings were at the same time, so same temp.

had a passenger reading the one in the glove box.

So... took inital reading... fitted cat, went for a drive immediately after fitment and took another?

Thats weird.

The gauges should be accurate, that is if your not running 11ty billion meters of hose...

was your old cat stuffed? collapsed inside?

So... took inital reading... fitted cat, went for a drive immediately after fitment and took another?

Thats weird.

The gauges should be accurate, that is if your not running 11ty billion meters of hose...

was your old cat stuffed? collapsed inside?

no, i didnt explain that properly, or you misundertood :D

the readings before and after the cat were not taken on the same day.

what i meant was, the readings showing the difference between the gauges is taken at the same time. ie, i'm not going out, reading one gauge, then coming back in, swapping etc, then out for another reading.

but i'm still baffled as to how one gauge showed higher by 0.5psi, and now it's showing lower by 1psi.

if the gauge on my steering column is correct, then changing the cat netted me extra flow which resulted in ~0.5psi gain (i'm happy with that).

If the other gauge is correct, then changing the cat actually cost me flow, losing about 1psi (not so happy).

the standard cat looked to be fine inside. all mesh intact, no loose rattling, etc.

Gauge A runs off the factory nipple on the plenum

Gauge B runs off the hose going to the bov

Where does the hose going to the BOV come from?

If it comes from the plenum, they usually do, then my guess is the BOV is leaking 1.5 psi.

:D cheers :)

Gauge A runs off the factory nipple on the plenum

Gauge B runs off the hose going to the bov

Where does the hose going to the BOV come from?

If it comes from the plenum, they usually do, then my guess is the BOV is leaking 1.5 psi.

:D cheers :)

hmmmmm, interesting. yes it's coming from the plenum.

why now though? why not before the cat? is it maybe an extra 1psi that did it?

it's a gfb hybrid bov (full plumback), and the spring is set to quite soft. would tightening the spring fix a leak?

if not, how do u fix a bov leak?

Have you tried swapping the vacuum lines to see if you get the same readings?

yeah i was going to replace the line to the gauge that reads low, and see if it was just that.

but i'd also like to know how to check/fix a bov leak.

will tightening the spring on the bov do anything for a leak?

so how do you check for, and fix a bov leak ? (gfb hybrid bov)

if there was a leak somewhere else, it would affect both gauges equally, correct ?

Check is easy, disconnect the vacuum hose from the BOV and block it off. Then compare the gauges. If the guages now read the same, then you know you have a leak. So check the hoses and the clamps between the BOV and the plenum, a 1.5 psi leak is easy to have and hard to find. If you can't find any leaks then it's the BOV, try tightening it.

:nyaanyaa: cheers :happy:

did you have the same person reading gauge b both times. and were they looking at it at the same angle. or maybe the person just rounded up, or the needle had flickered.

go for a drive and look at gauge a and have someone look at gauge b. then compare readings. then swap places and repeat. then you will be able to tell if it is how the other person is reading the gauge.

yeah, i thought of that. and i will get someone to video cam the gauge so i can check it myself afterwards. lol.

but all this heat in syd right now. not the best time to be pushing the skyline. might wait for a cooler day.

i might just change the hose from the plenum to the bov, and then see what the reading says.

what diameter is that hose anyway?

  • 2 weeks later...

i put a new silicon hose on from the plenum to the bov, with a new T-piece just before the bov, running to gauge B. all very secure, i cant imagine there's any leaks in the line.

gauge B is still reading 1 psi lower. tonight is a cold night, so i got 10psi on A, and 9psi on B.

the bov itself is bolted up well.

what bothers me is that there might be a pressure leak somewhere, hence the readings.

will adjusting the spring on the bov, to a harder setting, make a difference?

any others ideas of what to try, or where to look?

no, i havent swapped the gauges over.

i guess i should try that. the reason i havent is that the drivers side gauge is a bitch to remove, and the hoses in the engine bay arent long enough to swap over. i might extend the hoses and try that next.

yeah damn it, wouldnt you know it, it was the gauge playing up.

swapped gauges around and the bov line showed 9psi, while my factory nipple showed 8psi (with gauge B).

so gauge B was giving a false reading.

i shouldve tried this first, but i didnt imagine the gauge would all of a sudden give a false reading, after reading consistently for so long.

anyways, let that be a lesson to me.

good news, there's no leak :D

thanks for the help :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...