Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys i was wondering if its possible if you can post pics of ur cold air intake setups and heat shield setups you have used on ur r32's. reason beaing that my air filkter is just sitting there sucking in a SHIT load of hot air and im unsure of how to defeat this issue.

so any suggestions and fotos would be awesome!! THANKS AGAIN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144158-air-filter-shielding-on-an-r32/
Share on other sites

you obviously have a opipe that comes from outside and rams co0ld air in there yer?

send me other pics if u can yer...when u geta chance

well I didnt buy it, a mate of mine made it for me

this is the only pic I can find atm.. just a side shot

Its abit more expensive but i never get any hot air into the turbo this way... :):(

yer, i was thinking of that idea, but the wet weather put me off....so any problems as yet? and does water stuff up the airfilter?

Ive had the filter get abit wet from a rainy day and had no drama's.

The induction noise is much louder, performance i wouldn't think i gained much as at the end of the day the air has to travel through the turbo then intercooler where it actually gets cooled, i did it more for piece of mind that the motor isn't gettin heat soaked when im just sittin there in summer! >_<

looks good, but do u hav induction piping from underneith into that box or not?
the box is only on the sides, so there is already air comming in at the front

factory cold air feed runs under the headlight, just uses that

performance i wouldn't think i gained much as at the end of the day the air has to travel through the turbo then intercooler where it actually gets cooled, i did it more for piece of mind that the motor isn't getting heat soaked when im just sittin there in summer! >_<

A CAI is always much better than a pod sitting in air heated by the radiator. There are real losses, especially as the weather warms up. I notice almost no difference on a hot day. Feels the same. Unsure if those with pods feel a difference as I've never ran one.

----------------

I've always ran the stock airbox, I've plumbed 2 x 45degree 100mm pvc pipe in to the stock airbox. Looks all neat and tidy.

Probably could attach the stock cai to it to hide it a little more.

When I first did the cai I checked the filter to see how wet it was after a long wet drive. It was almost dry, the afm was definitely dry as was all the piping and top side of the filter. The bottom of the box was still dry also. Just the filter felt ever so slightly slippery on the bottom side.

I did punch it through puddles and had ppls driving in front spraying up plenty of water.

post-382-1164185835.jpg

I disagree, i get no heat when i stick my hand in that area what so ever (tiny bit if you thrash the hell outta it off the IC pipe), the radiator heat runs behind that, it is where the factory cooler would sit and even has the cuts in the wheel arch behind it to keep airflowing through >_<

I have had no problems with water, and to be honest i find the temp of the day doesn't really change how the car drives like it used to sitting up near the motor. I used to get abit more lag or abit less power down low, now its much smoother n almost always the same. Induction noise is much much louder and it looks sh*t hot when you open the engine bay.

I may even chuck it on the dyno and see if it makes any more power for a test! I wouldn't guess it would make much more, but maybe 5-10 rwhp max. It was more about the motor gettin heatsoaked in summer as i notice its startin to get hot and this has really helped. You will ALWAYS have ambient air blowin onto it even at 5kms an hour as its in a direct flow area rather than sittin around in an engine bay.

Personally i think either will do the job just aslong as the pod has a good source of air flow and is blocked from heat, that thing under the headlight isn't really any good

hmm........std box? but there is no sucking noise ey? BORING!!! lol...the filter down behind the bar seems cool....but yer...wat if the dampness gets in the afm? is that bad?

It doesn't... I've had it like this for almost 5years and ~150,000km's. >_<

Its actually quite loud, in the cabin its not with the windows up but passenger window down it is loud, however its very much louder on the side of the road, on par with a pod and you can hear the loud sucking noise from the bumper area rather than just everywhere.

I may even chuck it on the dyno and see if it makes any more power for a test! I wouldn't guess it would make much more, but maybe 5-10 rwhp max. It was more about the motor gettin heatsoaked in summer as i notice its startin to get hot and this has really helped. You will ALWAYS have ambient air blowin onto it even at 5kms an hour as its in a direct flow area rather than sittin around in an engine bay.

Chances are you won't see an increase in power as when you run up on the dyno the operator places the IT sensor where the air is sucked from, if its a pod usually on the pod, if its the stock air box inside the CAI.

As the POD see's a higher inlet temp from air passing through the radiator the IT sensor see's this, reports it to the dyno and the dyno pumps up the power figure to supposively 'compensate' for the given car's poor setup. Thats the way I look at it anyway >_<

Shove the IT sensor in the cai of a box and the it sensor reading will be lower so no or very little power correction will be made.

I've always strongly believed shoot out mode is a load of crap for this very reason, it should be placed in front of the car in the stream of the air leaving the big arsed fan. If you run a pod the motors going to suck hot air thats passed through the rad, so its going to make less power, if it runs a good cai and box its going to make more with no adjustment to the power reading other than the temp of the air the car is being blasted with. Reflects more so the real world on road performance with the bonnet down.

If that makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...