Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rocker cover gasket change in a series 1 R33 GTS-T (RB25DET):

Disclaimer:

Do this at your own risk! I accept not responsibility for injury or damage to any part of the engine or otherwise as a result of following this guide.

For Torque specs and other specific instructions, see the bottom of this post.

What you will definitely need:

New gasket(s) from nissan

New rear cam-shaft seal(s) from nissan

Gasket goo

Large phillips-head screwdriver

Medium phillips-head screwdriver

Spanner set

Socket set

Allan key set

Around an hour - more if it's your first time.

What you don't need but should probably use:

Carby cleaner

Relatively clean rags/towels

Throttle body gasket

1. Go to Nissan and purchase the rocker cover gasket(s) you require. This guide goes through the process of replacing both.

Part numbers for RB25DET:

LEFT (exhaust side) gasket: 13270-58S01

RIGHT (inlet side) gasket: 13270-58S11

(Consult your nissan dealer to be SURE of this. I am fairly confident that I have left & right correct. I bought both for $72.05.)

rightgasket.jpg

leftgasket.jpg

'Half moon' Cam gear seals: 11051-58S00

crankseals.jpg

crankseals2.jpg

2. Pop the bonnet.

3. Remove the crossover pipe.

There are a number of things that you must disconnect/unscrew to fully remove the crossover pipe and associated bits and pieces. These are highlighted in red on the image below.

enginecloseupred.jpg

It would be worthwhile putting a clean cloth in either end of the crossover now that it is removed, and also in the throttle body to prevent any unwanted debris entering the engine.

4. Now remove the two hoses on the rocker cover breather:

nocrossoverred1.jpg

Mine split when removing as they are very stiff hoses. I will need to get new ones from Nissan and I will update this with part numbers when I do.

5. Remove the coilpack cover.

Disconnect the two connectors highlighted in red below, and then use the appropriate Allan key to remove the 8 screws holding the coilpack cover to the rocker covers (highlighted in blue)

nocrossoverred2.jpg

6. Unscrew the left rocker cover

Take particular note on how tightly these screws are done up: NOT VERY TIGHTLY AT ALL. Remember not to do them up very tight when you put the cover back on. just to the point where u can see the rubber washer undergo a bit of pressure. Torque specs are at the bottom of this post.

Also, on some screws the rubber grommet will also come out with the screw, on others it will not. Do not lose these grommets!

Be very careful not to let any dirt or other crap into the engine, or into the rocker cover.

The 10 screws are highlighted on the image below (right hand side not visible)

nocoilcoverred.jpg

Removing the rocker cover will now expose your camshaft:

leftcoveroff.jpg

7. Remove the old gasket from the rocker cover, and replace with the new one.

Use gasket goo or sealant on the raised half circle on the front side of the cover, highlighted below:

leftcoverred.jpg

While I had the cover off, I cleaned the outside with Carby cleaner, being extra careful not to get any inside the cover.

Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently lift the old half-moon rubber from the back of the rocker assembly (highlighted in red below). Coat all outside edges of the new half-moon with gasket goo, and then reinsert it.

oldseal.jpg

8. Replace the left rocker cover by replacing the screws

Remember, not too tight at all.

The process for removing the right cover is slightly different:

9. Remove the screws on the right of the cover.

Note that there is also smaller screws that need to be removed, that are currently supporting the wires:

screwred.jpg

Either that or unfold the support and remove the wires. I did it the hard way.

10. Remove the screws on the left of the cover.

Removing the screws on the left of the cover is more tricky. If you have an angled screwdriver, go for it right now! If not (I didn't) you will need to unbolt the throttle body assembly.

There are 4 bolts you need to undo. well, actually two nuts on the top, and two bolts below.

The top two nuts can be done with a spanner. Use sockets for the bottom bolts, as if you use a spanner you will need to remove the Throttle Position Sensor.

Once the TB is unbolted, unhook the throttle cable from it's position and carefully lift the TB out of the way, allowing you access to the rocker cover screw beneath.

The gasket may break in this step, so it would be handy to replace it while you are doing this. I didn't have to, but probably should have :)

Throttle body and throttle cable (red) and TPS (blue):

plenumred.jpg

The top screw is tricky, but just involves holding a lot of stuff out of the way to get to it. Magnetic screwdrivers work well here.

11. Repeat steps 7 & 8 for this side, and then perform steps 10, 5, 4 & 3 in reverse order.

If putting the allan key screws back on the coilpack cover is proving difficult, try tightening the inner screws of both rocker covers just a little to bring them closer together.

Make sure everything that was disconnected is now properly reconnected, and all hose clamps are tight.

And you're done:

finished.jpg

12. Start 'er up!

An abridged (but specific) guide from a workshop manual is as follows:

rocker1.JPG

rocker2.JPG

rocker3.JPG

Hope this helps :(

Edited by Mike_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144235-changing-the-rocker-cover-gasket/
Share on other sites

Co-incidentally I have just done this today!

I don't see any mention of the half-moon rubbers that should really be replaced. You highlighted and said to put goo around that area, which is correct. (or goo the half-moons before you put them in).

Anyhoo, they're a seperate part number, and apparently these motors leak from there before they leak from the gasket, so while you're already there:

7. use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently lift the old half-moon rubber from the back of the rocker assembly. Coat all outside edges of the new half-moon with gasket goo before reinserting.

Edited by RANDY

I don't remember seeing any half moons aside from the raised half circle part of the gasket itself...

I'm not too familiar with mechanics in general but I know enough to get me by, so it's likely that I missed this.

Can you give me any photos of what you're referring to?

the rear camshaft seals is what he means. Half moon that slips in the back half moon cutout...but by the sounds of it the new rocker cover seals have them built in now. Good idea nissan!

Nope! I can see the gasket pics, and they don't have the half-moon built in. They ARE a different part number, and I had to ask for them seperately. I bought mine 2 days ago now, and they weren't built-in.

So you guys above who say you can see it built-in, that raised arch is for the front, but the rear camshaft seals (half-moon) can come out. When in, it makes the back flat, which sits flat against the flat part of the rocker gasket/cover.

I didn't take pics, but next time someone is doing this, they will be able to see what i'm talking about... as R33_racer mentions also.

So if you're still leaking oil around the back, and down onto your gearbox, those half-moons will need to be replaced and resealed! =-]

  • 4 years later...

just about to do this job n have a query for those out there that have done it...

some of the little rubber grommets that sit under the screws around the end of the cam cover n hold it down look pretty perished on mine.

are these something that also needs to hold an oil seal and therefor need to be in good condition or what?

n if they do need to be in decent condition are they just a standard grommet or are they something im going to need to source the specific OEM part for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...