Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting Very Hot!


Recommended Posts

Guest 40th-edition

driving back from tamworth today the line was getting very hot and not stopping rising so every hill i coasted down and kept her cool, limping it home.

never had this problem before!! but never done a really long trip in this hot weather that we had today.

anyone else have this??

i know intersooler blocks more than half the radiator but never before been this hot!!??

cheers, Azza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144362-getting-very-hot/
Share on other sites

yeah thats no good, if it does it more mabe water pump is shagged, have seen the blades on a water pump basically perish on an rb30e and it had a similar problem, just hot as all of a sudden. was only when they pulled the water pump out they found the blades on it were non existant

was the clutch fan working?

i'd also check the thermostat.

a good idea when the clutch fan kicks in is to drop back a gear to get the revs up higher. this pulls more air through the radiator. works good around town, you just have to put up with the roar of the fan.

Guest 40th-edition

cheers heaps guys..

i know the water pump is good, got changes 20k ago.

thurmostat is good due to correct warm up and running temps.

i was going to check that little ac electric fan in front of the condencer... see if its working. but it was down the h/way at 100-90 so i didnt think the fans would come into play so much!

the viscus fan is working fine, checked that right away.

do the alloy tank radiators run cooler at all from the standard plastic

ones??

thanks again, azza

i have a just jap cooling pro radiator, and my engine runs between 74-78 degrees, peaking out at 80 - 82 on a hill climb with 10mins of hard driving on boost.....

----could be a head gasket.

Could be radiator needs to be taken off and new end tanks and flush etc., ac fan has nothing to do with it.

Edited by HRthirtyone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...