Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

Well, I went on the hunt for royal purple engine oil and tranny fluid. I went to various places and they either had to import from the US taking a month or more, and only did it by the quart, or they would not order it in at all.

In the end, I decided to drop a line to royal purple Australia and ask. I talked with a good bloke and he said because they didn't have many distributors in Melbourne, they'd sell to me direct. I bought some and am off and running.

They also said they'd look after us if I wanted to organise a group buy, so here I go.

The price they gave me was 5ltr 10W40 $82.50

75W90 1 Quart $28.70 x 3

Total including freight $180.60

5 litres is about 5.5 quarts, the best I've heard of was for about $17.50 a quart, this works out to be about $15 a quart.

If we get enough interest, I'm sure they can do better, but it's kind of a balancing act.

I need to know if you guys are interested. The more interest, the better deal we get, the better deal we get, the more interest.

Drop a line here if you want to get some. If you have any queries, let me know on this topic so I can answer it here for everyone.

Anyone that does not know about royal purple, feel free to check out www.royalpurple.com.au or www.royalpurple.com for the US site. From a lot of opinions, it's a competitor redline in terms of performance, but a bit cheaper. As my car is not hard tuned, I can definately justify getting great fluids for my vehicle, but redline is a bit pricey for me.

Anyone else who has used Royal Purple, feel free to endorse or discuss here.

I'll see how many are interested and we'll go from there.

PS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458 is the ongoing discussion about 'the good on oils' RP gets a bit of endorsement there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144364-eoi-royal-purple-oil-products/
Share on other sites

no interest?

Oh well.

I should mention that street commodores did a test that measures film strength and metal on metal protection, and Royal Purple came out on top, beating Redline, Penzoil, motul and many other top name brands.

The test involved having a rotating disc dipped in an oil well making contact with a non lubricated cylinder (meeting point perpendicular to rotation of cylinder, meaning lotsa friction. They then put weights on the arm holding the cylinder to increase load.

The only oil to come near royal purple was a penzoil one. Can't remember which. It took a full 3 pound load before a scar on the bearing could be seen.

Royal purple took 3 pounds and no scar until they took the oil well away, and even then the scar was miniscule.

I've got the oil in my engine and have noted a slight drop in oil pressure (went from 7.5W-30 to 10W40 though) a much easier cold start, quieter idling and a better ride, although I admit I did an ECU reset when I did the oil change, so that would have had an impact too.

I would be keen for some diff/transfer case/gearbox fluid.

I have a 1990 R32 GTR.

I will just have to find out how many litres it takes etc.

Keep me updated tho!!

Cheers,

Dan :happy:

yeh me 2.drop me a pm when ya no

cheers

no interest?

Oh well.

I should mention that street commodores did a test that measures film strength and metal on metal protection, and Royal Purple came out on top, beating Redline, Penzoil, motul and many other top name brands.

The test involved having a rotating disc dipped in an oil well making contact with a non lubricated cylinder (meeting point perpendicular to rotation of cylinder, meaning lotsa friction. They then put weights on the arm holding the cylinder to increase load.

The only oil to come near royal purple was a penzoil one. Can't remember which. It took a full 3 pound load before a scar on the bearing could be seen.

Royal purple took 3 pounds and no scar until they took the oil well away, and even then the scar was miniscule.

I've got the oil in my engine and have noted a slight drop in oil pressure (went from 7.5W-30 to 10W40 though) a much easier cold start, quieter idling and a better ride, although I admit I did an ECU reset when I did the oil change, so that would have had an impact too.

film strength is only one of the key compoents in a a good oil. I have seen many UOAs on RP and Redline cars and seen better results overall with Redline. Although I believe RP is good, some love it and some hate it.

just have a look on the Oil thread in general, will be some more info. Its by no means conclusive based on a subjective test as stated.

film strength is only one of the key compoents in a a good oil. I have seen many UOAs on RP and Redline cars and seen better results overall with Redline. Although I believe RP is good, some love it and some hate it.

just have a look on the Oil thread in general, will be some more info. Its by no means conclusive based on a subjective test as stated.

No argument here, Redline is definately a great oil, but it is by no means a perfect one. I couldn't justify the extra $ for little to no benifit on my car. But hey, that's my choice. I'm just extending that choice to others.

I beleive the GTR takes 4.8 litres of oil.

No argument here, Redline is definately a great oil, but it is by no means a perfect one. I couldn't justify the extra $ for little to no benifit on my car. But hey, that's my choice. I'm just extending that choice to others.

I beleive the GTR takes 4.8 litres of oil.

fair enough...just clearing the air for people to make up their own mind. your price is cheep tho.

  • 6 months later...
no interest?

Oh well.

I should mention that street commodores did a test that measures film strength and metal on metal protection, and Royal Purple came out on top, beating Redline, Penzoil, motul and many other top name brands.

The test involved having a rotating disc dipped in an oil well making contact with a non lubricated cylinder (meeting point perpendicular to rotation of cylinder, meaning lotsa friction. They then put weights on the arm holding the cylinder to increase load.

The only oil to come near royal purple was a penzoil one. Can't remember which. It took a full 3 pound load before a scar on the bearing could be seen.

Royal purple took 3 pounds and no scar until they took the oil well away, and even then the scar was miniscule.

I've got the oil in my engine and have noted a slight drop in oil pressure (went from 7.5W-30 to 10W40 though) a much easier cold start, quieter idling and a better ride, although I admit I did an ECU reset when I did the oil change, so that would have had an impact too.

haha a totally irrelevant test.... they used a grease tester....... anyone can add additives to pass that test but it does not replicate any condition found inside a combustion engine.

edit: oops old post :woot:

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...