Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

before my turbo gets here i want to get all of my fittings ready so it all goes on at once. just a little warning:

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARENT CONFIDENT. for a small fee Aaron from Sliding Performance can do all of these mods for you.

i took my turbo off a few days ago so i had all of the fittings laying around so i thought i'd start getting things ready.

i went to pirtek to get new washers which coast $25 for all new copper ones, and got some 6mm drill bits as well as some new circlips rings for the wastegate actuator (old ones looked a bit crappy), i got some 4mm and 5mm ones as i wasnt too sure which ones would work.

so i got to the banjo bolts:

the best thing to do would be to get them into a vice under a bench drill to get a 100% straight hole. if you've got access to something like this then go for it.

i didnt have access to one so i had to make do with what a vice grip and a steady hand.

this is how i held the bolt in the vice grip: (all pics were taken off camera phone)

25-11-06_1329.jpg

make sure you're drilling is as straight. it shouldnt be too hard as the old hole should work as a countersink to get you started.

this is what the difference is:

25-11-06_1316.jpg

the end result - two perfect 6mm holes:

25-11-06_1438.jpg

so far thats all ive done, ive opted to have my oil line modified by Aaron but i might give it a go if i get bored.

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

dont forget the hard line too. thats if ya using it

yeah im getting Aaron to do that for me, or if i can find a place to do the brazing ill do it myself.

$25 for washers?

i got 8 all together @ $2.80 each which is around $22. i had to be somewhere so i didnt have time to cry over the price.

Good stuff Joe, whens the turbo get in? And which one did you pick?

I'm planning to get one for the R34 later on so would be interested to see the results you pull off.

im not too sure when it'll be here mate, but my old turbo was letting off a fair bit of oil so i took it off the road to be safe.

well i got bored so i thought i'd modify the oil line. you only need to modify the banjo fitting that sits on the motor, which on the oil line is the one closest to the loop.

25-11-06_1635.jpg

i put the banjo fitting into a vice then centre punched it.

i got the 6mm drill bit out again and started drilling, making sure that it went straight down. im going to go around on monday or tuesday and try to find someone to braze it. ill find out how much it costs and report back.

a few pics.

the fitting centre punched:

25-11-06_1621.jpg

the fitting drilled:

25-11-06_1628.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

i went and dropped off my oil line to get brazed.

apparently you need a brass plug to sit inside the 6mm hole, then braze around that so the braze has something to adhere to. its costing me $40 from an engineering workshop, theyre brazing and cleaning it all up for me to be ready to be bolted up.

i probably could've gotten it cheaper somewhere else but i wanted it done properly as im very pedantic when it comes to my car.

righteo.. ive got some pics of the end result.

07-12-06_2133.jpg

07-12-06_2132.jpg

seems though the oil lines arent copper. the guy i sent it to couldnt get braze to stick and thought it might be steel so he welded it as if he was welding to stainless steel, and it also isnt a copperey colour after he cleaned it up.. as you can see, it looks like stainless steel.

When i got my SlidingPerformance High-Flow, i was lucky to have a mate who works in an engineering shop, with lots of high-tech tools. He took it to work and i think used a TIG welder to fill the hole. I would recommend this technique to fill the hole, i remember brazing from highschool days and believe TIG would be HEAPS stronger. (looks like yours has been welded too)

Car is a R33 GTST. It has the Slide max oversize hi-flow with the VG30 rear on it.

The tuner was quite impressed with the results and the way the turb's performed

as he said by as early as 2200rpm it was at 5psi and by 3500 rpm it's at full boost

which in this case was set at 17psi.

nice figures mate! ofcorse i dont mind :P

thats the exact turbo ive ordered.

what supporting mods do you have?

Other mods are. Power Fc, FMIC, full exhaust, Nismo reg, Bosch 040, Z32 AFM and using

a turbotech boost controller which holds boost very well at that level. ;)

Oh and upgraded the clutch to a Exedy cushion button.

Edited by mickr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...