Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An easy question, is the flywheel the same between a push and pull clutch, specifically between 32 and 33 gtr?

I assume so but want to check before I find myself with an un-bolt-up-able mess.

BTW I should have worked this out myself, FAST says a 32 GTR flywheel is:

12310-05U11

which has been superseeded by:

12310-05U13

12310-05U14 (33 GTR)

12310-05U16

So yes....all interchangable :P

are you going from push to pull or from pull to push?

reason im asking is im going from pull to push and im looking to swap slave cylinder's, clutch forks, bearing carriers etc...with someone going the other way.

converting one box from pull to push and the other from push to pull....is a gearbox-a-thon in the garage

we did this same thing during an event at EC....smashed 3rd between turns 9 and 10 and when the spare box turned up....guess what it was a push type...our box was a pull. So we did the ol' belhousing switcheroo out the back of the pits on top of one of the waste oil drums.....never do that job again without being at a workshop without a hoist. To add to the mayhem the spare box had no reverse!!

I'll check on the weekend I think we have another pull style plate, fork and pivot thats not being used. Should be all you need - slave cylinder is the same just mounted the other way around.

I need the push style in the race car due to regs and am just going to put a pull type in the stagea since I have all the bits already.

I'll check on the weekend I think we have another pull style plate, fork and pivot thats not being used. Should be all you need - slave cylinder is the same just mounted the other way around.

I need the push style in the race car due to regs and am just going to put a pull type in the stagea since I have all the bits already.

im going from pull to push so ill need pivot ball, clutch fork and bearing carrier. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...