Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is 1990 R32 GTR

Power Mods 3" Turbo back zorst, Apexi Pods, Stock Turbos

Other Mods Suspension, Clutch, Aluminium Radiator

First run with stock ECU

Second run with Microtech LTX12 ECU, Bosch Coils and Ignition pack (only changes)

Was fairly surprised with result made 5 kw more with 4 psi less boost

and the 17 psi run, i was a little worried when he told me cause of stock turbos but they held no prob

Car now running 9 psi might turn boost up to 12 psi on weekend and leave it there

Boost isnt as smooth as i would like, but will prob get a Profec B-Spec II soon

All in all im quite happy, what you people think?

RellikZephyr

post-22860-1164790889.jpg

post-22860-1164791026.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145290-power-gains-from-microtech-comp/
Share on other sites

Bloody difficult to compare when one is p and the other in kw. Those MX Dynos are happy in my experience, but not necessarily in this case.

That said you appear to have lost a bit of mid range with the low boost setting. I don't have a GTR but I wouldn't run it at 17psi on stock turbos if I had one. I think that 12-13 daily is fine.

What fuel are you using?

yeah as soon as i was told about the 17 psi i said NOOOOO and turned the boost down to 9 psi

i am running Shell V-Power 98 RON fuel

and thats why i modded the pic to include the KW reading on the HP chart

RellikZephyr

yeah the mechanic wasnt aware they were the stock ceramic turbos

luckily they held and if they didnt not my fault therefore he would have had to fix

but it has told me my stockers are in good nick

RellikZephyr

So your saying this guy will pay for your engine if it blows up when its on the Dyno ???

Tell us his details.. I bags the first tune. This guy is gona get real busy really soon.

yeah the mechanic wasnt aware they were the stock ceramic turbos

luckily they held and if they didnt not my fault therefore he would have had to fix

but it has told me my stockers are in good nick

RellikZephyr

if it blew because HE put too much boost into it

then damn right i would have made him

i never told him to set the boost that high

i had a EBC in there set to 14psi and it evendently wasnt set up quite right

so he put a manual boost controller on (to trouble shoot the EBC) and set the boost to 17 psi of his on decision

if it blew because of that and he didnt want to fix it i would have taken him to court

RellikZephyr

I would suggest its not the engine but the microtech. The resolution on those things is really poor. You just can't have a really good tune. They are great if the car is only going to run flat out (ie drag racing) but not very accurate with partial throttle and closed loop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...