Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PwrFC VS Microtech?

any experiences or opinions, plz post input

which is better , which runs better, is more cost effective versus adding more mods etc.

and for a Daily driver.. wouldnt it be better to actually keep the afm? for fuel consumption reasons, in different temperatures?.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145451-pwrfc-or-microtech/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not really the results im lookin for..

I know there is LOADS of info on the PFC on these boards.. Not so much about the Microtech on a skyline though..

what i really want is a comparison. I mean.. the PFC was originally designed with Skylines in mind.. wasnt it?.. could be wrong there.. but also the microtech has good self learning features so ive been told,

so i need a comparison, cause im tryin to work out which route im going..

i mean i can get the PFC, get it tuned at pits or somethin, prob cost me 1600 total.

Or i can get the Micro, from Microtech to suit my rb25det, then fully tuned buy my tuners. for 2k flat.

just wondering.. is it better to spend the extra 400$. and i mean, wat if the PFC is better for the skyline..

so can anyone Compare the 2? and point out your reasons for the results.

Depends whether you want air flow readings or Air pressure, they both have their adv and dis but in reality it is what your tuner would prefer.

The microtech being Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) is hesistant around zero pressure, this is a hard area to tune compared to a Manifold Air Flow (MAF) which can determine quite easy if it is flowing or not.

Depends whether you want air flow readings or Air pressure, they both have their adv and dis but in reality it is what your tuner would prefer.

The microtech being Manifold Air Pressure sensor (MAP) is hesistant around zero pressure, this is a hard area to tune compared to a Manifold Air Flow (MAF) which can determine quite easy if it is flowing or not.

Good point,

Yea tuner good with em, Might go with the FC, but hmmm, hard decision. will have to find a tuner for the FC . its a daily driver, not a race car.

Thanks for your comments guys! :D

Edited by silverbulletR33

I'm using a microtech LT-8. Crappy fuel economy, crappy cold start. Not such a fantastic ECU for a daily driver. Power FC is prolly the way to go as in my opinion microtech is more of a racing ecu. So yea, PFC is probably the go for you, except i have a thing against AFM's (don't know why, i just do).

www.nengun.com

www.ebay.com

Still plenty around, just have a look.

nengun doesn't have any in stock.. ebay ? you actually looked for an rb25 one? ZERO. The only ones that are around, are the ones that haven't updated their stock levels properly. When you ask 'no sorry, don't have that model anymore, have the others'

"plenty around" my ass...

had a microtech on my s1 33 gtst actually was the first in adelaide to have their 'plug n play' setup. in short it was very poor as a daily driver, mostly cause it did not have enough adjustment for cold start idle up etc. but as alredy stated, fine for a race/weekend only car. oh yeah and definately agree that your tuner is EVERYTHING when dealing in aftermarket ecu. my choice PFC :)

I have tuned quite a few of both, and unless it has 1000hp and the afm is casing a restriction, the pfc has many more features than the microtec, and will return better fuel economy/cold start/drivability with far less tuning. Most dyno shops can tune a pfc, and many have datalogit, if they cant, i wouldnt let them tune my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
    • Did you even watch the video? Its not a steering wheel. 
×
×
  • Create New...