Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just got my new skyline, My r33 series 2 makes a squeeling noise as soon as i start it on cold mornings(for about 3 seconds)), & has a tiny bit of trouble starting. although when the car is warm.....it starts no worries with no noise.

Any ideas?

Also i can hear my fuel pump when i start to accelerate, is that normal on r33's, just concerned it's not on the way out or something?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145637-r33-squeeling-in-the-morning-help/
Share on other sites

Hey there,

re: The squealing noise - sounds like one of your belts is too slack and needs tightening, it's a 5 min job for a mechanic.

re: fuel pump, is it the standard pump? They're usually very quiet, I can't hear mine in my series 2, but if it's done heaps of k's it could be noisily on its way out...Aftermarket installations can sometimes be heard buzzing/humming away at idle and even when accelerating...

thanks man, yeah i'll get the belts tightened. the car has under 100,000kms and i'm thinking maybe it is an aftermarket pump......i get hear it buzzing/humming when i accelerate but when i let go of the pedal it goes quite. cheers!

re: The squealing noise - sounds like one of your belts is too slack and needs tightening, it's a 5 min job for a mechanic.

Also have a look that your water pump isn't leaking/throwing coolant at your fan belt, which would make it squeal.

Hope it isn't as it can be a considerable job.

in the mean time rub some soap on the belts

Don't put soap on your belts.

Soap acts as a lubricant.

Lubricant will cause the belt to slip more, only it won't be audible.

The belt/s are not meant to slip.

For more info on the same issue, see this thread.

I seem to remember that CRC makes a belt pulley spray. This adds grip to the belt and pulley. I'd apply correct tension to the belt first, but if it doesn't help then I'd use the CRC. If that doesn't work then new belts, an easy job all round really.

On a side note, the old hagon bench saws that used to use the PTO on a tractor had huge belts 5-10 metres long and 0.2-0.3 metres wide. When they slipped the woodcutter used molasses to reset the grip!! So I'd reckon any heavy sugary mix would probably work as well.

I Think you missed the point ie "IN THE MEANTIME", mainly, because if a belt is squealing it's time to replace it belt dressing or not, if your that tight up you cant afford a new fan belt how can you afford a can of belt dressing?

Soap acts as a lubricant.

If its wet, dry it acts like a belt dressing.

If its wet, dry it acts like a belt dressing.

When a squeal occurs for a few seconds on cold starts, it's generally caused by moisture on the belt/pulley.

Soap absorbs moisture, so unless people want to get the hair dryer out to dry the soap every morning, it's still not a very viable option.

It would be easier to by-pass the soap altogether, and just blow-dry the belts. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...