Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thornleigh cylinder heads at thronleigh: 99809454 (heard great things about this mob, haven't used them though, but looking at getting my next head done there)

Indy @ IS motor racing at rockdale (i think it is, don't have their number though. Indy really knows his shit, good guy.)

OR Greg @ Autosport Engineering in Kirrawee. Hasn't done internals or anything for me yet, but does some good work, has done most of the work on my car, good bloke: 95211388

whats dart like with tunning? what do they prefure? price wise are they reasonable? any experiences?

From what I've seen his tunes are pretty awesome. Brad (blk180) had his engine built and tuned there and it runs absolutely perfect. Knock levels are basically non existent, power curve beautiful, etc etc.

JB race engines do a fair few RB's, they do alot of work for other high profile workshops as well.

45 George Street Granville (02) 9897 1720

http://www.jbraceengines.com/

yes ill second that....JB's are the gun's in Sydney

They wouldn't give a price of any kind until I delivered the engine to them so I didn't go there. I found it quite strange.

I also felt that DART were only interested in full house type rebuilds. They were not interested in what I wanted from the engine. They basically said they build it their way and that's that.

I tried heaps of places in Sydney and while a lot if not all of them would build a good engine, I never felt from what they said that I could trust them so I ended up going to proengines in Queanbeyan.

It's a bit hard to quote a price until a motor is stripped, I think it will only bite them in the ass if they quote a job and then find major internal damage.. either way the customer will be annoyed the price has gone up or they are left copping a loss. Or they could quote a high price that would cover any additional work, which they don't do.

well the assembly itself is not a big deal, I paid $900 from memory.

but even if you supply the parts they need to:

clean and test block and rods (xray crack test whatever)

check bearing clearances main and big end

check crank straightness

modify crank nose for oil pump

deck block

bore if necessary

hone bores

check piston/bore clearances and ring end gaps

replace all welsh plugs

check head for straightness/shave head....and check out all the top end there is always something needed (valve guides, stem seals, springs etc)

It's a bit hard to quote a price until a motor is stripped, I think it will only bite them in the ass if they quote a job and then find major internal damage.. either way the customer will be annoyed the price has gone up or they are left copping a loss. Or they could quote a high price that would cover any additional work, which they don't do.

I know what you mean. I guess I was basically after a price list but I didn't want to give them my engine to get one. Other places were happy to provide one and then once the job was commenced we were able to look back at the quote and go, 'ok this bit and that bit are unnecessary but this bit still is and so is this'. As it happened there were a few things that weren't necessary to do on mine and I ended up getting some extra machining done to the head and still came in under the quoted price which was quite reasonable in the first place.

I mean I'm not an expert in engine building or I would have done it myself but I know a fair bit and I'm not an idiot. Nor do I expect anything unreasonable from businesses.

If there is a next time I will pull the engine apart before asking for quotes. If you are careful with your labelling you can take pics and ask on here what's wrong, then when asking for a quote you can get a pretty good idea. One thing you can't do at home is pressure test the valves. I don't know what the proper way to refer to it is but basically they are testing how well your valves seal. If good, leave the head alone, if not, recondition it.

I don't mean to say that either DART or JB are crap. Far from it but I'm just saying that they might not suit you depending on what you are doing exactly and what you expect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...