Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we have a fully prepped race crank (RB26) on offer...

sonic tested, cryogenic treated, cross drilled, grub screwed, JUN oil collar fitted (new), ground and balanced.

this is all ready to be fitted.

all work professionally carried out by Croydon Racing Developments and is available to be picked up from their workshop at Silverwater in Sydney.

$650...no offers please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145831-r33-gtr-fully-prepped-race-crank/
Share on other sites

sorry not after a crank by why dose a R33 Crank need a JUN collar.

because when the oil pump disintergrated it rounded off the flats and marked it up a bit....the collar is stronger due to its superior mettalurgy. Id collar any high rpm crank with this item R33 or not...perfect match for the JUN pump as well

is this to suit standard size? i'm very interested because my crank needs to be repaired as part of the rebuild, it might be better off to buy yours!

its 10 thou- on the big ends and mains...if your crank needs to be ground, balanced, crack tested and a collar fitted it would be the same cost as buying this one....essentially this crank is free....its the preparation your paying for.

done. i'll take it then. PM me details please.

postage to adelaide?

Croydon's banking details and pick up address for your courier can be found here....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=145354

If you cannot arrange freight Lance can arrange courier for you at your cost...phone him on 02 96484264

pm me when you have deposited so i can let other buyers know its sold.

Thanks for clearing that up for me paul

I probably should have mentioned why the collar was fitted in the 1st post as i thought the question might be asked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...