Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Well its been 5 months since i started the Rb26/30 build & its about time to fire her up! :thumbsup:

I've got a few questions for you all, if you could give me some feedback i'd appreciate it:

1) Oiling: What process should i go through to make sure theres good pressure upon starting it (i.e priming the pump, turbo's etc) and wats the best way to go about it.

2) Will it be alrite to start the engine with just the dumps on, or should i wait until i get the front pipe made up? Reason i ask that one, is i'm putting the engine in at my place, and then towing it to the exhaust shop for the front pipe to be made, and then its off to the workshop to get tuned.

That's all i can think of now, if theres anything else i should know, please let me know :laugh:

cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145870-fireing-up-a-new-engine/
Share on other sites

1. Disconnect the CAS, and crank the engine until the oil light goes out, and the gauge shows pressure. Then you know there is oil around the engine, and you can get oil pressure. Then reconnect CAS and fire away.

2. Even at idle, an engine with basically no exhaust makes a hell of a racket (I know, I did it when I fitted a little L20ET to my R30).

When i get my new engine in this is what I will do.

Connect the fuel line that goes to the rail back to the return line to the tank (no fuel getting to injectors)

Disconnect the CAS

take the cam covers off - pour oil over both of the cams (not too much just to soak them a little)

take all the spark plugs out and turn the motor over untill you can see the oil light either turn off or flash a little (some oil lights stay on and do nothing)

keep turning the motor over without any compression or spark or fuel untill you can see lots of oil activity in the top end. once this is done you should be right.... (put rags around incase you get oil splashing)

When i get my new engine in this is what I will do.

Connect the fuel line that goes to the rail back to the return line to the tank (no fuel getting to injectors)

Disconnect the CAS

take the cam covers off - pour oil over both of the cams (not too much just to soak them a little)

take all the spark plugs out and turn the motor over untill you can see the oil light either turn off or flash a little (some oil lights stay on and do nothing)

keep turning the motor over without any compression or spark or fuel untill you can see lots of oil activity in the top end. once this is done you should be right.... (put rags around incase you get oil splashing)

are you looping the fuel line to stop fuel going in the motor???

if so, when the cas is disconnected your injectors wont pulse, so it will save you looping the fuel line.

cheers

Jeremy

about the exhaust part of things..

noise levels, obviously theyre going to be huge and its gona run a bit rough but who cares, wont cuase any probs.

its a bit bodgy but i drove my car down to the exhaust shop about 3kms away after a rebuils with a dodgy peice of dump pipe, sounded like a truck and went like shit but who cares if your just firin it up!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...