Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well first of all I will apologize if I have posted yet another rebuild topic, but I haven't had time to search the forums for the appropriate post.

Ok, well I have a 95 R33 gts-t with 160,000kms which is lightly modified, nothing spectacular.

It makes 186kw on 12psi and I am definitely chasing more but before I can go further I'm convinced my motor needs to be rebuilt.

My question is this. How much for parts & labour and roughly how long will the rebuild process take as it is my only means of transportation and I don't want to take too much time off work. Also any engine rebuilders that you wish to recommend I would appreciate it.

I am only looking to achieve around 250rwkw, so any rebuild kit that is capable of that kind of power and still be reliable would be fine.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146300-rb25-rebuild-advice/
Share on other sites

Our rebuilds have taken from 2 weeks to 3 months depending on what parts you want to put in the motor and if you are going to get balancing done and that sort of thing as most of the time parts need to be sent off to other places :D ???

If you are going for a stock rebuild shouldn't be to expensive and wont take long but if you are going to upgrade parts well depend what you want to do...

I would ring around some workshops and get prices and go from there might not know what you need till you open the motor up?? >_<

Well I dunno about the previous owner but in my care it has not been neglected or abused.

Ok, well I'm not absolutely 100% positive the engine needs to be rebuilt but I don't want to spend the money on a bigger turbo, injecters etc to increase the power just to have the motor explode.

So my aim is to just buy some forged pistons and rods, new bearings,head gasket, cams, cam gears and have the crankshaft balanced etc..etc and just pay someone to disassemble and reassemble it, and of course tune it.

After all that, then add the turbo.

I'm going to have the engine compression tested next week and I'll let you know the result.

My main reason for concern about the engine is that after Advan installed and tuned the Power FC, knock levels were consistently high, was possibly leaning out, don't have an AFR gauge. So we had to disconnect the E-Boost and put it back to standard, runs fine now, but slow.

Also just wondering what you guys think of the X-Force low mount manifolds, I have one on my car now which has warped and is leaking although it didn't sit perfectly on the head to begin with. And if you're wondering why they put it on my car in the first place if it didn't sit right is beucase upon removal of the standard one they broke every stud and they were stuck in the standard manifold and couldn't re-use it without more labour which I didn't want to pay for.

Yeah so.. that's the kind of rebuild I'm after. I would probably even settle for genuine nissan parts.

Thanks for readin'

Get the compression test done (and a leak down test if you want peace of mind), then decide if you need the rebuild. Both tests should give a good indication of the condition of your motor.

If you're currently getting high levels of knock, then it's probably the result of poor tuning, probably running too much boost and your stock injectors maxing out. Given that the car is fine on lower levels of boost, I'd say it's less likely that there's something wrong with your motor.

I'd recommend that you go back to your tuner and get them to adjust the tune before you do some damage and end up melting a piston - you'll then need a rebuild if that happens. It's not unusual to have to get a tuner to make small adjustments after an initial tune as they can't simulate all driving conditions on a dyno.

My car has 280rwkw+ on standard internals for quite a while now and hasn't missed a beat. I wouldn't recommend wasting money on a rebuild if you don't need to unless you're chasing well over 300rwkw.

ECR033 is right. I have similar power to him with standard internals, and I track my car.

Your problems seem to be tune related, and this business about not fixing the exhaust manifold properly because you didn't have enough money seems really silly.... If you have enough money for a rebuild, you have enough money to fix the exhaust manifold.

If it's warped, then it's leaking, and that'll cause you some issues.

Just get a leakdown test and compression test done. If all's good spend the money on fixing up that exhaust manifold, buying a new turbo and getting it tuned properly. You should easily get to 250rwkW and not have any issues with the engine.

At the time I didn't have the money but now I have a credit card!, which is going to pay for all the components, as for the manifold I'm gonna get another one under warranty.

For my next tune I think I'll go to SAS, I've heard good things.

What mods did you guys use to achieve 250+kw wilch & ECR033???

...or thereabouts :)

Engine's still going strong too.

Dropped 10rwkW at the last dyno day due to a dodgey thermostat and a blocked radiator (pfc retard maps @ 100degrees celcius... bah!). It's been back to normal for a while now. woohoo :(

See you've got two options Craig (if the leak down and compression comes back aok), do what ECR and I did, or rebuild and end up with around about 220rwkW and an engine that can put out over 300rwkW if you add $6k to the $15k you would have already spent rebuilding the engine.

15k+6k = a straight 32 GTR that may need a rebuild within a year....

Lots of sums to do, lots of things to consider.

Thanks for all the input guys... and so promptly too.

If the compression & leak down tests show that the engine is fine, how many more K's should I expect to get out of it before it does require a rebuild?? (Currently at 160,XXX).

And worst case scenario, the tests reveals the worst. Do you think I could get away with just replacing the bearings, rods & pistons and leaving the rest as it is provided the other stuff is ok?? Maybe adding some adjustable cam gears if I get credit card happy.

Also, I'm going to Just Jap today to get my manifold replaced under warranty, you guys know anyone/anyplace that could install it for a reasonable price and is available soonish.

Thanks again everyone.

Treat it right, keep it properly tuned and regularly serviced, and don't thrash it at EVERY SINGLE opportunity and it should last for ages (not sure how many kays, though, sorry).

There is a Stagea owner here who also owns an R30 Skyline that has done over 350,000kms with (as far as I know) the original L-series motor. Nissan engineering is pretty sturdy, so there's no reason you couldn't expect to at least reach 200,000 at a minimum if you treat it right.

What mods did you guys use to achieve 250+kw wilch & ECR033???

If you look one post above Wilch's mods in the link below, you'll see my mods.

Make sure you don't forget to factor in labour costs when budgeting your mods...labour is a huge component of the total cost.

Like Goldzilla said, if you service your car regularly, the tune is good and you don't drive like a tool, then there's no reason why the motor won't last for a long while yet provided that it's in good condition at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...