Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is some updated pics of mine with the teins super streets installed...Still chasing the spoiler in the last pic if anyone has seen one or know where i can get one message me please - it is taken from another member fat34 but his came standard so he wasn't sure where to get it.

post-31217-1184489871_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184489926_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184489973_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184490264_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184490345_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184490422_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184490502_thumb.jpg

post-31217-1184490673_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Garage Kagotani BNR34 Time Attack monster!

This is one of the most sought after demo cars in Japan, not to mention one of the fastest out there with a 57.232 around Tsukuba! Believe it or not this is actually a customer car, built to become one of the most unique BNR34s ever made. A custom built GT-style wide body kit is what sets this GT-R apart from others on the road (well not technically as its not road registered!), and it sure attracted a lot of attention at TAS 2006! The kit, unlike the majority of ill-fitting stuff out there is of excellent quality and yours for a cool million Yen.

gkr34014mk3.jpg

gkr34103py9.jpg

gkr34131ff3.jpg

gkr34037bo0.jpg

gkr34055gv3.jpg

And this was the first ride to wear these impossibly cool Rays titanium-effect wheels!:

gkr34032oo9.jpg

And what lies beneath that carbon bonnet you may wonder...

gkr34073hy8.jpg

A T-78 blown RB28 capable of unleashing 700 PS through an OS Giken sequential transmission

gkr34172sr7.jpg

The interior is, well, spartan to say the least. Only the basics have been left untouched, what is not needed to go fast around a track has been relegated to the bin!

gkr34197sy2.jpg

Had to use TE37s for rolling shots as the new Rays were only a prototype of the wrong offset and catch on the AP Racing brake calipers

gkr34280ie7.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...