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Here is some updated pics of mine with the teins super streets installed...Still chasing the spoiler in the last pic if anyone has seen one or know where i can get one message me please - it is taken from another member fat34 but his came standard so he wasn't sure where to get it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Garage Kagotani BNR34 Time Attack monster!

This is one of the most sought after demo cars in Japan, not to mention one of the fastest out there with a 57.232 around Tsukuba! Believe it or not this is actually a customer car, built to become one of the most unique BNR34s ever made. A custom built GT-style wide body kit is what sets this GT-R apart from others on the road (well not technically as its not road registered!), and it sure attracted a lot of attention at TAS 2006! The kit, unlike the majority of ill-fitting stuff out there is of excellent quality and yours for a cool million Yen.

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And this was the first ride to wear these impossibly cool Rays titanium-effect wheels!:

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And what lies beneath that carbon bonnet you may wonder...

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A T-78 blown RB28 capable of unleashing 700 PS through an OS Giken sequential transmission

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The interior is, well, spartan to say the least. Only the basics have been left untouched, what is not needed to go fast around a track has been relegated to the bin!

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Had to use TE37s for rolling shots as the new Rays were only a prototype of the wrong offset and catch on the AP Racing brake calipers

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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