Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not if he gets a GTR fibreglass front bar thats made to fit GTT. but you will definately need GTR bonnet so a Z-Tune will finish the look off :D

you might as well get Ztune side skirts & rear pods from JSAI to complete the look.

clean 34 you got ash! :(

1) isn't East Bear the only one to make a GTR front bumper that fits GTT guards?

2) I didn't think JSAI ever completed that kit for the GTT?

full East Bear GTS-R kit is around $6.5K according to import monsters calculator with a 260K yen price tag, bout $8K with bonnet

1) isn't East Bear the only one to make a GTR front bumper that fits GTT guards?

2) I didn't think JSAI ever completed that kit for the GTT?

full East Bear GTS-R kit is around $6.5K according to import monsters calculator with a 260K yen price tag, bout $8K with bonnet

you can get fibreglass GTR bars to fit GTT on ebay or at carmate and some bodykit places (non genuine eastbear of course)

yeah JSAI has finished the GTT Z tune skirts + pods;

http://jsai.net.au/index.php?page=shop.pro...t&Itemid=29

oh right o, they're not side skirts, they're just the lower lip extensions. East Bear you get the sides skirts AND the lower extensions, if you want.

carmate doesn't seem to have any EB copies, couldn't find on ebay either... didn't think there were any EB copies going around??

basically what eastbear is, its a copy of GTR front bar to fit GTT, carmate have the GTR copy front to fit GTT.

as for skirts & rear bar, im pretty sure eastbear are the only ones that do make them for GTT.

GTR front bar to fit GTT here.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-GTR-Skyline-...%3A1|240%3A1318

id love a eastbear made gtr rear bar for the gtt tho. nothing else comes close to looking that good.

someone should really make copies of EB stuff!

hey luke, is it possible to get a pic of your car stationary. wondering how low is your fronts. trying to get mine lower but it hits the guard. probably offsets of the wheels, but just curious what is involved in getting it that low.

Went to a motorkhana yesterday and had a awesome time.

vids - http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=LukeEN...amp;view=videos

Nice work Luke! That looked like a hell of a lotta fun.. where was that at?

There you go guys.

Suspension:

Cusco Zero2e coilovers

Nismo sway bars

Cusco rear camber arms

Cusco rear toe arms

Ikeya Formula rear traction arms

Cusco Front camber arms

Cusco Front caster arms

Wheels are Work emotion XD9 18x10 +18 all round with stretched 235/40/18's

I havent done any guard mods.

Running -3.75 camber on the front and -3 degree's on the rear.

Was at monarto Howie. Had so much fun. Cant wait till the next one.

post-38653-1236070583_thumb.jpg

post-38653-1236070660_thumb.jpg

There you go guys.

Suspension:

Cusco Zero2e coilovers

Nismo sway bars

Cusco rear camber arms

Cusco rear toe arms

Ikeya Formula rear traction arms

Cusco Front camber arms

Cusco Front caster arms

Wheels are Work emotion XD9 18x10 +18 all round with stretched 235/40/18's

I havent done any guard mods.

Running -3.75 camber on the front and -3 degree's on the rear.

Was at monarto Howie. Had so much fun. Cant wait till the next one.

Jesus christ, that looks f**king awesome

And no guard mods at all! Does it scrub?

spring rates are like 12/10 or 10/8. Could stiffen up the rear i guess. Might get some cradle bushes when i put a 1.5way in it.

Havent got a skid pan here in SA :down: Gonna hit up another motorkhana next month tho. Taken it around the track for a grip day once and had a ball.

Keep an eye/hear open for the car late this year early next as it undergoes a engine conversion :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...