Jump to content
SAU Community

painting wiper blades

R33-JET

By R33-JET,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33-JET Community Regular

R33-JET

Posted
Posted

ok painted my wiper blades in black last weekend

back and front left ones came out good

just other one went crap on my as it got bit dirty when can ran out on its last coat and then i said it all back down (maybe sanded it down bit to much.. back to steel)

how now i got new paint and spray it and it drips and all that crap

i sprayed like 6-7 coats and it keeps coming out crap

anyone know how to get it back ready to paint

or should i just go get a new one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14675-painting-wiper-blades/
Share on other sites
MAS2 Contributor

MAS2

Posted
Posted

you should probably sand it back to metal then spray it with a couple of coats of metal primer (from any good hardware)

then once you have let it completely dry, spray with fine coats of black paint

you have to make sure you are patient and let each coat dry

also try and only spray really fine coats of paint, if you try and spray it fully black in one coat it will most likely run and stuff it up again

hope this helps

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Have had a little bit of experience with painting metal (no I am not a spraypainter, but have had to paint ships).

Preperation is the most important part.

Lightly roughen up the surface with a fine grade paper, 400 or similar. This gives the paint a surface to stick to.

Make sure just before you apply a first coat of primer that you wipe the surface over with prepsol or thinners.

Apply the paint evenly, not too thick or it will run - so light coats are good. Keep the painted surface in a dry place and away from any dust.

Best results on days of over 25deg C (not vital), but low humidity. If the humidity gets above 75% I wouldnt touch it.

A couple of coats of primer, three or four light top coats. Clear coat, I am not sure how necessary this would be on wiper blades. Shiny blades would reflect a bit of sun and might be annoying when driving.

Make sure you use the same type of primer, thinners and topcoat, ie all enamel or all acrylic. This is very important.

If you have to sand back at any stage, make sure you use thinners or prepsol again before painting again.

Just my 0.02c worth. I have got most of my experience with large areas and brushes, not small stuff with spray cans, but I have done both.

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

steve is correct.. i was a spraypainter/panel beater for over 2 years.

with things like this to paint the easiest and best thing to use is scotchie... that stuff ya mum uses to scrub down pots and stuff like that. its better than using paper and much easier.

make sure there are NO shiney parts on them... shiney means it wont stick.

once its all scratched up... prep, prime and paint.

  • 2 months later...
coco69 Experienced

coco69

Posted
Posted

same question as talej, one of my bolts comes off, the other doesn't. and bolts on or off, the wipes wont come off?

i painted mine exactly as above, sand, primer, thin coats, two light clears, but all while on the car, newpapered and covered it like anything. but couldn't take off the actual wipers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...