Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hiya all was wondering if anyone else on here has had problems with their car developing a tendency to drift over the road surface? mine has recently developed this problem aand i suspect (after 4 wheel alignments) that the rear steering rack maybe causing it? before i got the rear camber corrected and the front caster done i t would always pull to the left a little but now it can go either way at random times, its not a drastic pull but it is enough that if you let your hand off the wheel that the next bump/ridge in the road surface will cause the car to drift across over the course of around 50-60 metres or so.

any ideas guys as it is pissing me and the wheel alignment guys off to no end, (prolly seeing as he cant charge me until he gets it right) gotta love service garuntees hahahahahaha

cheers oxford

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146911-wandering-stagea/
Share on other sites

What's your front caster setting? even caster is best for cornering,but on cambered roads,the car will follow the road camber noticeably if the caster is even. set the O/SF back half a degree and it'll track straighter when cruising around.

What other settings are you running out of interest?

Justin...

heya andy

yeah i have printed out the entire suspension thread around 80 a4 pages at work and the guys have based their settings on getting as close to the ones in the thread as possible but it still wanders

the alignment is being done at my local pedders workshop on a CORGHI brand alignment machine whether that would make any diffwerence or no i dunno. it is a new machine prolly less than 2 years old

SK offers caster kits in the Suspension Group Buy, and has settings for when you add those... Apparently you need to add a caster kit to add a sufficient amount of caster to get rid of the wandering...

Drop him a PM, and he may be able to help. Also, have a look in the Suspension Group Buy thread...

have already added a caster kit to try and bring the left hand side further to square and it hasn helped any, althouhg it was only one offset bush in the left (passenger) side so i may hafta get another offset and push the drivers side back or something??

Mine sufferes a similar thing - follows every single hole and dip and camber in the road. My old falcon you can pretty much let go of the wheels at 100kph and be good for at least 2-300m, but the stagea.... no.... Am going to try SKs camber and caster kits.

have pretty much put the same stuff as in the kits he has already and hasn really made that much of a difference unfortunately. only one that is different is the rear i have adjustable camber arms but they will be goin soon as i get the offset bushes for the rear arms

have pretty much put the same stuff as in the kits he has already and hasn really made that much of a difference unfortunately. only one that is different is the rear i have adjustable camber arms but they will be goin soon as i get the offset bushes for the rear arms

well shit... beats me then lol

If i figure out what it is, ill let you know! PS u do the same!

Ummm, it doesnt seem completely normal to me.

I dont believe my Stagea (S1 , Jan 97) suffers from what you desribe.

Doesnt wander, doesnt track offcentre, and I still havent had a wheel alignment done to it yet.

Mods: Bilstein shocks, standard springs, 360mm ride height all round (centre of wheel to arch), 17inch R34 GTT wheels with 235/45 tyres, and Whiteline 'pineapples'. Whiteline front caster kit not yet fitted.

Im honestly very happy with the handling, I mean its no Lambo but for what the Stagea is its great - as we all well know. Albeit Im a careful driver, I havent come across your described problem in my car (have with a Pulsar N15 hatch tho!!! long story....)

It'll be wear & tear on a particlar item I guess. Has you car got signs of accident damage? Have you replaced all the undercarrage bushes, etc? What condition are your tyres in? Is your current suspension old/new, installed properly? etc etc...... power steeing fluid/lines, steering rack, plenty of things to go thru.

Id had enough of the mucking around with our kittedout N15 hatch, that was a nightmare in regards to wandering characteristics and we never got it properly sorted in the end. Oh, and the 3 clutches in 20thou kms! :laugh: Was in Hot 4s tho on the backpage, so that was good for a laugh.

Best of luck with it, would be good to get different opinions from different workshops perhaps, time permitting. Maybe take out the hicas and put in the lock bar? Cant be of much help tho, sorry.

:rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...