Jump to content
SAU Community

33gtr Box Into 32gtr

monga
 Share

Recommended Posts

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
while we are on this topic. do you have the 34GTR box in your 32 still andrew? i'm wondering does the 32 GTR transfer case fit to the 34 getrag box?

Yerrp shes here to stay!

and no i dont beleive it does. i think they are both different. but am not 100% sure on that.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

cool, so I'm guessing you bought a 34GTR box and transfer case together?

what were the main things that need changing?

i know of:

clutch

shifter

but what about tail shaft? and if it's different could you just swap to a 34 GTR shaft?

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted (edited)
cool, so I'm guessing you bought a 34GTR box and transfer case together?

what were the main things that need changing?

i know of:

clutch

shifter

but what about tail shaft? and if it's different could you just swap to a 34 GTR shaft?

ok what i got was.

34 box, transfer, and shifter

34 clutch, (mine was more difficult to get as larger imput spline)

34 tailshaft

34 cross member

i think either the tail shafts were split apart. and 32 part for the rear to diff, and 34 part to mount to the box? someone may be able to correct me on this but the 32 shaft is different from the 34 shaft bolt section wise?

or it may have just been a straight swap to the 34 shaft. i cant quiet remember. either way one of the boxes is longer by about a few inches than the other

i'll get a photo of the spare i have at home and you can decide whats happened.

it is an amazing box tho i really like it

p.s. i fixed the boost problem. suspect hose clamps. it now holds 1.5 bar nicely so back to the dyno i go!

Edited by Angus Smart
Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
baron what's a 34 box + transfer worth?

it cost me about a little above 8k all up.

which if pretty expensive i guess.

but i didnt have a choice when it came to clutch. so i had to get top of the range os tripple plate. or might be a quad i cant remember as i never actually saw it.

but for a box thats very very streetable and lovely ratios and the bonus of 6 speed! its hard to resist.

i'm sure you can source a cheeper box than i did tho.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted
it cost me about a little above 8k all up.

which if pretty expensive i guess.

but i didnt have a choice when it came to clutch. so i had to get top of the range os tripple plate. or might be a quad i cant remember as i never actually saw it.

but for a box thats very very streetable and lovely ratios and the bonus of 6 speed! its hard to resist.

i'm sure you can source a cheeper box than i did tho.

wow that's alot.

but if you're keeping it i guess is worth it!

cheers

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

yes you can. If you dont want to change to a pull type clutch just redrill the holes for the slave cylinder and tap them and the slave will bolt straight on. There are 2 spots on the R33 box for the new holes. Then swap the front end of your box onto the R33 box and use the old push clutch fork and bearing. Its a very simple job.

When swapping the front of your box over be sure to use some grey sealer on the bottom bolts as they help seal thhe box from the bell housing.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
y would u bother when u can have an os giken 5 speed with new 33 synchro's for 7-8k?

well, they both can handle similar power. both seem to cost around the same price one has 6 gears, and the other has 5. and i quiet like the ratios in the 34 box. and it wasnt really that much of a hastle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...